QuestionHello, 96 sebring coupe 2.5 auto - engine stops/stalls usually after driving 2 or 3 times. It can stall while excelerating at 50 mph plus or while stopped - sometimes it will start right away and other times I wait 5 minutes or more.
Took it to autozone to get read out they found nothing - I never have anyone with to check for spark - I took egr valve off and lubed it - maybe I should get a new one - also changed fuel filter and distributor, plugs and wires. Stalled in the middle of a busy intersection & cop had to push me out of the way and got towed - this sucks - Thnx for any help...J
AnswerHI again J,
Thanks for the nice evaluation and comments. The non-starts with 32 and 21 codes (though the 32 may be stale since you told me that you had removed and cleaned tha egr valve) suggest that either the egr or the O2 sensor is not responding properly. On the egr, you might also check the egr solenoid and maybe check the stem of the valve to make sure that is moves freely, and when it won't start go back to the valve and use the tip of a screwdriver to push the stem towards the closed position and observe whether it might have been stuck ajar. Here is my standard advice about the egr and code 32:
"It is saying that when the engine control module tests the egr it doesn't seem to function, which usually means the EGR valve is stuck, most likely ajar. So you need to try and get it freed up and moving again so that it will be closed when the engine is shut down, otherwise it will be difficult to start and to idle.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start. In the absence of any code other than 32 this is the best approach to getting the car to start."
The 21 code is reporting a fault with an oxygen sensor, more likely the upstream one just before the catalytic converter. It could be the heater in the sensor, so you might test the resistance between the two white wires, and it should be 4 to 7 ohms. If that passes, then it could be the sensor element itself or the wires to it, so take a look at all the wires around the sensor. Try erasing the codes by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, and if the code 21 persists I would replace the upstream O2 sensor.
Roland
Hi J,
I would try to get the fault codes when it fails. You don't have to go to Autozone, do it yourself:
Turn ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less. Then watch the check engine light (which will be "on") to begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track. Then repeat to verify the count is correct. Pair up the counts in the order they appeared to form two digit numbers. Last such number will be 55 (last two groups of flashes should be 5 in each) which is the code for "end of readout". Then write back or you can get a decode at:
www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
I suspect it is your crankshaft sensor that is beginning to fail but not so badly as to set a code (which would be code 11) because that is the symptom. It would be good to be able to check for spark immediately when it fails. Also listen when you first turn the key to run for the sound of the fuel pump which lasts for about 1 second. It starts up again when you move to the starter position but you can't hear it over the noise of the starter motor. But you can listen to it for the first second to verify it is working; it is in the fuel tank so listen for it coming from under the rear of the car.
You can test the crank and cam sensor with a voltmeter and a wrench to turn over the crank pulley bolt by hand. So if you have a voltmeter let me know and I'll give you the wire colors to probe with straight pins and then attach meter leads to the pins while you turn the engine over with a wrench. Ignition key must be in the "run" position, of course.
But this intermittant stall, restart quickly or within minutes is usually one of the ignition sensors failing due to heat, cooling down so it recovers, etc.
Let me know if you get any codes other than 12 (battery disconnected recently) and 55. The 12 could mean that there is a loose connection of the battery + post wire or a flakey engine/body ground wire connection on the - post wire. So check for that too.
Roland
P.S. It doesn't sound like an egr problem. I have the Sebring coupe shop manual so we can trouble shoot this if we can get a clue as to what is the status when it stalls.
A code may show up soon.
