Chrysler Repair: Check Engine Light... now no starter motor, replacement bearings, radiator fan

Question
... went out to the car to run an errand... Does not start.. all the panel lights are on but no starter, no sound, no nothing!  I took the Neg cable off for 15 min, cleaned Frame Ground, same bad results. Same codes showing.
BTW.. you asked how the codes were displayed...
-Perform same Chrysler key on/off sequence
- Codes show up in odomoter

Is towing now my only option?

Thanks!
-David
-------------------------

Followup To

Question -
The Check engine light came on in my 2000 LHS one week after it had a tune up and radiator fan replacement (bearings shot).  the light went out after aprox 5 miles after I stopped and checked the Fuel cap(it was tight).  2 weeks later, the light is on to stay.  The car runs fine.. just the light is on.  Dealer says the trouble code indicates the computer itself has a problem and the tune up had nothing to do with it(I suspect they grounded and/or "spiked" the electrical system)

I'm not overly interesed in blame, but I am concered about the $640 estimate to replace the computer... especially when the car has performed faultless after 125k miles with NO electrical events that may have harmed the computer.

Is there anything I can do with the computer? Do the IC's, Proms, processors, etc ever "work" themselves out of sockets like microcomputers sometimes do?  Are there solder joints that fail and need re-heating? Are there replacemnet computers available on the open market and can mere mortals install them?

Answer -
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the kind evaluation and nomination. After '97 the simple counting of flashes of the check engine light ceased to be a means of getting fault codes. I have yet to see a comprehensive list of other techniques but you could take a look at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for some possibilities. If none of the those work then a socket under the dash to the right of the steering column is the access port for the use of a diagnostic readout box with 16 pin plug.
Roland





Hi Dave,
I would be inclined to get another readout of the engine controller either at a parts store for free (e.g. Autozone) or at an independent shop. I have not delved into the cngine controllers, but my recollection is that they are pretty well hermetically sealed so as to improve their resistance to the environemental conditions under the hood, so it may be quite difficult to open one and get it back together in a manner which would allow it to continue to serve you. Replacing one should not be a problem (plug and play) except that there may need to be a reprogamming of the replacement unit to indicate the VIN of your vehicle and to update the internal programs that may not be appropriate between the donor and your vehicle. I would attempt to find a unit from the same year, model, engine, trans, theft system present or not, etc. so that there are no equipment contradictions inherent.
But try to get the code readout (P plug 4 digits) and then write me back and we'll compare notes on what Chrysler says about the code and whether it is truly a failed pcm.
Roland

Answer
How about the state of charge of the battery? Do you have a charger you can put on the battery?
Try moving the gear shift lever a bit off of the detent to test if the park/neutral safety switch might be out of adustment.
Have a helper try the starter while you listen for a click to come from a relay in the power distribution center under the hood (probably #8 in the front of the box but I can't be sure). If you don't get a click then it has to be in the ignition switch, relay, safety switch circuit. If you get a click then either the relay points are not conducting well or the starter solenoid is weak, or the battery is weak. You can test if its the relay (assuming that it clicks) by jumping a wire from the B to D sockets(front- and rear-most sockets into which the relay fits). If that causes a cranking, then the relay or it actuation circuit is bad.
If you don't get a click, try jumping across the relay pins in the crosswise direction with 12V from the battery to verify that is will click (12V + on the A, ground on C). While it is actuated, check for continuity across B to D pins.
So let me know what you learn.
Roland