QuestionWow that was fast! Thanks for the reply.
Actually it doesn't matter if the doors are locked or unlocked. As long as the van is off, the horn will go off. I told one place about my horn problem (mind you, they didn't even look at it) and they told me I would need a complete new stearing column. Needless to say I have been with out a horn ever since. I have been dealing with the horn issue for over a year, but the window issue just began over the past month. I don't own a volt/ohm meter, nor do I know what one is. However I'd like to receive the information you have anyway. I may be able to find someone to help me. You can find my listed address below. Thanks for your help!
Rashon Graham
2621 Ashley Club Cir
Norcross, GA 30092
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Followup To
Question -
I had to remove the horn fuse for my Voyager because the horn will come on and stay on when the van is not in use. Once I crank it up, the horn shuts off and seems normal. I do not have an alarm system, but the remote does toot the horn when used to lock the doors. Also the power window on the driver’s side gets stuck. If I slam the door with the van on, I can roll it down, but not up. To get it up I have to turn the van on, wiggle & pull the glass, then hit the button only for it to move half an inch. Please help thanks...
Answer -
Hi Rashon,
When you say the horn comes on when the van is not in use, I assume that the van's doors are locked when it is not in use and that is the condition when the horn will blow on it own accord. It won't blow if the van is not in use but the door are not locked, correct?
If that is case, then I suspect that the problem is in the body control module because the circuit that actuates the horn in located there, and both the horn button on the steering wheel and the door lock remote use that pathway to blow the horn. Maybe try only using the dooe key to lock the doors and see if that solves the problem. If so then the problem has to do with using the remote door lock that causes the problem. I doubt it has to do with the remote fob itself, but must be something wrong inside the body module itself.
On the power window, you will need to test the switch as well as the motor to figure out where the problem is located. I have the '98 van manual and will xerox and postal mail you the pages that show how to do those tests if you have a volt/ohm meter and want to give it a try.
Just send me your post mail address.
Roland
AnswerHi Rashon,
a couple of weeks ago I mailed you some pages about the power window and the door trim panel. The letter was returned today as "undeliverable". Do you still want them? Was there an error in the address that you gave me?
Roland
Hi Rashon,
That business about a new steering column is bunk. The only thing in the column that is relevant is the clockspring. But I can't see how whether the engine is running or not would affect the horn clockspring's function. I believe the horn will blow via the horn button whether the ignition is on or off, but if it works only when the ignition is on then that would eliminate the horn button/clockspring circuit when it is shut down. So it has to be the body computer module which actuates the horn relay in order for the horn to blow that is at fault. That module is "on" all the time, and it is causing a false "blow" command to the the horn relay to be given. That probably means a new module to fix it but that is not cheap either.
There is one other possibility: the horn relay could be faulty and is closing by itself due to heating up as the engine heat dissipates toward it after the shut off. That relay is in the power distribution box where you took out the fuse. If you had a voltmeter you could check to see if the relay was actually being activated when it blew the horn for no reason, and if it wasn't then just replacing the relay would do the job.
I'll send the pages on the window in any case.
Roland
