Chrysler Repair: 88 2.2 turbo runs rough after warming up, light flickers, fuel pump filter

Question
OK the symptoms have changed. When the car is cool like first thing in the morning, it will start and run great. As it warm up, it starts to run rough, and struggle to stay running. The check engine light flickers like it is trying to die. It wont even idle. It has no codes stored in the ecm. It will die, and start right back up but it still wont run right. If you let it sit for a hour or so, it will run great again until it warms back up. It has a 2.2 turbo. Ive been tasked with getting this car back on the road after 3 years of sitting in a field. The guy that had the car just parked it because it quit on him. I found a bad fuel pump, and have since replaced the fuel pump, filter, tank sock, timming belt, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, map sensor, and have been tracing vacume line leaks. Please help.
            Duane  

Answer
Hi Duane,
I would suggest that you check the coolant temp sensor to see if it's resistance is accurately tracking the coolant temp. To do it right you should measure the ohms across the terminals when it is at 70F (7-13K ohms) and then heat it in a pan of water to see if it drops smoothly as heated to a value of 700-1,000 ohms at 200F. That is the proximal sensor for mixture control related to engine temp, so that is a suspect item. You will find it mounted on the thermostat housing box (tan trace, black/light blue wires)*.
What did you find out about the canister purge solenoid?
Roland
*There is also a similar sensor on the intake manifold called the charge temp sensor, but its purpose is mainly to improve hot starts. But you might want to check it also. Same specs.

I'm working on an 88 new yorker 2.2 turbo. I have just replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, map sensor, timing belt, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Now it will start and run, but its a rough idle and feels like its only hitting on 2 cylinders. When you rev it it will rev really rough and the check engine light flickers like its trying to die. If you dont keep playing with the gas it will die. Then after a few minutes of keeping it running, the check engine light will clear and the car smooths out and will idle. The only trouble code it will give is a 31, purge solinoid circuit. Where is this solinoid and how can I test it to see if it is the problem. What does it do?  
 
Answer:  Hi Duane,
Ooops, I just re-read the manual and see that I reversed the valve function when it is energized/de-enegized. It is normally open, but closes when energized. The time/temp function of the valve is correctly described, but the grounding of the pink trace was reversed in my description to you.
Roland



Hi Duane,
The purge solenoid controls the evacuation of the fuel vapors stored in the charcoal canister which is part of the emission control system. The solenoid is (I believe) located on the right side inner fender shield and it the forwardmost relay/solenoid mounted on that side. It has a 2-wire plug which has 12v on the dark blue wire when you have the ignition switch to "run" position. The other wire is pink trace and is attached to the engine controller 60-way at pin 54. If you don't find the solenoid where I described it to be, check the right side strut tower for a similar 2-wire plug of the same colors.
Its purpose is to open the vacuum line from the canister to the intake manifold (when the pink wire is grounded), and that happens AFTER the engine is warmed and as well after a time delay of a few minutes. So it may well be that your rough early idle is due to a solenoid pink wire that is grounded all the time OR the solenoid valve is stuck open so that it is allowing vacuum to suck at the canister before the engine is warmed up. When it is not grounded, the pink wire may either have 12V on it or be floating, I am not sure which, but in any case you should not find it to be grounded when you start the engine cold. You could test the solenoid valve by putting 12v and ground jumpers direct from the battery and see whether it clicks and whether the vacuum line nipples indeed open the valve (suck), and then remove the jumpers and see if the valve is then closed (suck again). So those are my suggestions and an explanation as to how it is supposed to work. Please let me know what you observe and how this is resolved.
Roland