Chrysler Repair: no start conditon 1997 sebring 2.5, sebring lxi, digital voltmeter

Question
Hi i have a sebring lxi ,,Recently it will not start after repeated crank attemps it finally will kick in and start ..I have replaced the crank sensor ,,the distributor ..and it still does it when ever it feels like it ..when the codition occures i hear the fuel pump come on .but i checked and found no spark occurin .I suspect the ecm is the problem but of course im not positive and i belive on this model the ecm has to be programmed to recogonize the body control module ?Any information would be appreciated thank you ..

Answer
Hi John,
I don't know about the ecm having to be programmed to recognize the bcm, but I don't see any relevance of that to your problem.
I would be inclined to try to read out the ecm for fault codes as a starting point.
Turn the ignition key: "on-off-on-off-on and leave it on" (doing this within an elapsed time of 5 seconds or less). Then observe the check engine light which remains 'on' to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, repeat the count for accuracy.
Then group the numbers in pairs to form two-digit fault codes; the last of which is always 55 (end of readout).
Then write back to me or go to www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for a translation.
Then you might disconnect the battery for a few minutes (erases memory) and after the next time it starts and you drive it for a few minutes do another code check just to get a fresh readout. You would get a code 12 (battery disconnected recently) but disregard that one. The codes that are currently stored may be stale, thus the need to reread after an erasure and drive.*
I have some ideas that require probing some of the sensor wires to verify function using a digital voltmeter and jumping the ASD, etc. but I would like to know what your codes are. One non-electronic possibility is that your egr valve is stuck ajar which will prevent easy starting. To take a look at the stem and try spraying some WD-40 on it where it enters the valve body, and then lever the stem up and down by inserting the tip of a screwdriver in the slot of the stem.
Do you have a voltmeter to do the measurements?
Roland
*If you can't get the codes out that way, then try asking at an Autozone store for such a readout via a code reader that is plugged in under the dash. I am told they will do this for free. Otherwise a shop will do it for around $40