Questioni have done what u have said it came up 5 pause 5 so now again i have no cluse what tpo do plz write back and help me
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Followup To
Question -
i have a 87' chrysler new yorker 2.2l , turbo. i have given it a tune-up,(plugs,wires,air filter,cap and rotor), fuel pump, fuel filter, pick-up module, catty was hollowed, vacum lines were checked, battery was replaced, starter was replaced. i am still having the same PROBLEM! when i start my engine it smetimes starts rough , other times not, but anyway, when i am in park it will run fine, can give it lotws of gas and it is fine, when i put it into drive, and start going the more i put the pedal down it wants to cut out. the longer i run it the worse it gets, to the point of when i put the gas down any more then barely touching the gas, it wants to cut out. i can't pull hills i can't drive it long distances, and i have alrady put all these parts in to it and still nothing. i don't have the money to take it and get it hooked up to the computer, or the timing light, or the fuel pressure monitor. plz help , give me some options plz, i am a husband with two kids, and i don't want to have to lose my job because i can't get to work, plz HELP ME!
Answer -
Hi Jeremiah,
You don't have to go to a shop to get the any fault codes that the engine controller may have logged into its memory:
It may have a stored fault code that is indicative of some engine control problem which will help us determine the cause.You can readout the engine controller for stored fault codes with your ignition key. Turn it: "On-off-on-off-on and leave it on" (doing this within an elapsed time of 5 seconds or less). The check engine light will remain 'on' but then begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. The last sets of flashes will be five in each. Then repeat to be sure you have the numbers correct. Group the numbers in pairs to form two-digit numbers which are the codes. The last code will be 55 which means end of readout.
You can get the meaning of the codes at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
The translations aren't specific enough to know exactly what to do, but directs you toward the system in which a fault was found. You can send me a follow up question for more specific advice. If I am "maxed out" then use the comments section of the 'Thank and Rate' tab below to reach me.
While you are waiting for me to respond you should check the exhaust gas recirculation valve to make sure that it isn't stuck ajar. Look for the stem in the separation area between the valve and the vacuum actuator. There is a slot in the stem into which you can put the tip of a screwdriver. Make surt the stem moves out and back against sping tension and that is closes tightly. Put some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body to be sure that it will move freely.
I'll get back with some ideas after you tell me any fault codes.
Roland
P.S. It could be that the fuel pressure regulator is not sustaining the 55 psi needed to operate the injectors properly but that should be checked with a pressure gauge so you don't buy a regulator unnecessarily.. So see if you can find one to borrow. But lets see how the fault codes and egr help on this problem before trying that route.
AnswerHi Jeremiah,
At least we know there are no codes. Again, I would not overlook the egr as a cause of your problem. If it is stuck ajar it dilutes the mixture resulting in exactly what you are describing. Look for it in the pipe from the side of the turbo outlet that runs around the rear of the engine and into the intake manifold near the throttle body. Look for the stem in the separation area between the valve body and its vacuum actuator. There is a slot in the stem into which you can put the tip of a screwdriver. Make sure the stem moves out and back against spring tension and that is closes tightly. Put some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body to be sure that it will move freely. Then start the engine and rev it to observse that the stem moves out and back as you go to 2000 rpm and back. If that doesn't correct it, then the fuel pressure regulator is the next suspect:
It could be that the fuel pressure regulator is not sustaining the 55 psi needed to operate the injectors properly but that should be checked with a pressure gauge so you don't buy a regulator unnecessarily. If you can't get a gauge and measure it, then paying close to $100 for a regulator to find out is the only choice.
You might want to see if you can borrow a timing light to check whether you are at 12 BTDC with the engine warmed up and the coolant temp sensor disconnected (located at the thermostat housing, the fan will come on when you remove its plug, but don't worry about that, it is normal).
Those are my best suggestions at this point. Please follow up on all 3.
Roland
