Chrysler Repair: 2.5 V-6 stalls, dies, wont start at times. No codes, exhaust gas recirculation valve, exhaust gas recirculation

Question
i have 123,000 miles on the car and recently started having trouble with the car.  when sitting for awhile the car usually start right up and at times dies  and start right back up and at other times crank but no turn over. come back anywhere from 5 to 30 mins. and starts right up. this happens when at idle and while driving. also while driving the car seems to lose power and come back to  but at times dies. when it does die sometimes it will start right back up and others just crank. i do know that the fuel pump is working and i change the filter every 9,000 miles i also religously change the oil at every 3,000 miles to. i have used an obd2 tester on it and it is not printing out any codes nor any lights on the instrument panels have came on. i took it to the dealer and they came back with $2800 estimate. and that was to change the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, asd and fuel pump relays, also spark plug tube seals which were filled with oil, and finally service the throttle body, also the front lower control arms were bad. the only thing i had them do was service the thottle body cuz it would of been $100 for the diagnostic or $85 for them to service the tb. all the other work i did myself for about $300 and still have the same problem. also i think that when the cars running u can smell a strong odor of gas at the exhaust but  cant remeber cause its been that long since ive had it started cuz i havent had the time to work on it please help me this is my work car  and my other car is killing me on gas and i travel about 100 miles round trip for work

Answer
Hi Brett,
The fact that there are no codes means that something is wrong with a part that is not well monitored by the engine controller/sensor system. I assume that you have a 2.5L V-6 in your Sebring.
My first advice with a "no code" is always that it is probable that the exhaust gas recirculation valve (egr) is sticky and so it is diluting the mixture by remaining open, whereas it should be closing tightly, at the times you are experiencing these failures.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle body). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now have a smooth running engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't smooth out, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside.
So those are a couple of actions to take now. And of course, keep checking for codes.
Roland