QuestionOK , cleared the codes ran car untill hot, it only as i call it hickuped a few times at low rpms above 2000 it seemed to run smooth, the only code besides 12 is 33 ac clutch relay open or short.
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Roland,
ive checked the temp sensors OK , checked EGR valve pain toget to but its OK , Im starting to think the problem might be a very simply answer Not a can of gas and a match.
But im thinking maybe in the line of plugs and wires, would this cause this problem. The reason im thinking this way is I let the car idle untill the systoms started I applied the throttle to around 2000 rpm and the hickups were not apparent but after letting the rpms return to idle they returned.
I check the codes and none were the cause plus several old code still showing is there a way to reset the codes so i maybe able to get a clearer picture.
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I have a 94 concorde 3.5 , It started to act up a few weeks ago after the motor was hot it would act as if it had a dead miss every once in a while. after a week it quit, I replaced coil pack cam and crank sensor it is now running again , But when the motor gets hot after about 5 miles or so it will start trying to die even when giving it throttle. the rpms flux when driving and when at idle. after the motor cools it will run smooth untill it is hot again
Answer -
Hi Luther,
Sorry for the delay, your question came after I had gone to bed.
A temperature dependent malfunction causes me to suggest that you check those sensors that measure temperature and are necessary to adust the mixture in response. The coolant temp sensor is adjacent to the thermostat housing (where the large radiator hose from the top of the radiator connects to the engine) as well as the intake air temp sensor which is located in the middle of intake manifold tubing array (next to the manifold tuning valve). If you have an ohmmeter it would be good to check the resistance of the units when cold and then when the engine is hot and acting up (or even in the middle of the process to see if the resistance changes smoothly). Lift the tab on the electrical connector to remove it. Then measure the resistance between the two terminals of the sensor. When cold it should be 7,000 to 13,000 ohm and at full operating temp of 200F it should read 700 to 1,000 ohms.
You also might do well to ask the engine controller for fault codes. Turn the ignition key "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" then you will see that the check engine light is 'on' but it will start to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat the process to make sure you have numbers correct. Then group the numbers in pair in the order they appeared, thus forming two digit numbers. 55 should be the last number which is the code for end of readout.
Then go to www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for a translator of the codes into fault explanations.
Write me back if you have any questions, or if you have success or don't.
You finally might want to check the egr valve which is located on the rear of the exhaust manifold on the right (passenger) side of the engine, horizontally, and check to see that its valve stem is freely moving by putting a screwdriver tip in its slot and moving the valve in and out. Spray some solvent on the stem where it enters the valve to free it up if necessary.
Roland
Answer -
Hi Luther,
Yes, the memory can be erased by simply disconnecting the battery for about a minute (or if you want to avoid having to reset the clock and the radio presets you can pull fuse B (20 amp) in the power distribution center for a minute.
You will find only code 12 to be present which means battery supply to engine controller disconnected recently, when you put the fuse back in or reconnect the battery. Then you should drive the car a bit and get it warmed up to see what new codes appear. Tell me when you write back about the missing when the engine is hot. Is it only at idle, or also when at mid-range rpm's?
Roland
AnswerHi Luther,
I understand then that your remaining problem is a low speed/idle speed miss without and relevant codes. The typical reasons for that is a vacuum leak, spark plugs worn or not gapped properly, or ignition wires breaking down. So you could check for the vacuum leak by spritzing a tiny shot of starter fluid at all the vacuum line connections and observe for a change in rpm. You could check and gap the plugs, you could observe for arcing around the wires when it is dark at night. The 33 code wouldn't have anything to do with the miss, just keeps the ac from working which should be checked out: the relay circuit or the pressure sensor is saying that there is not enough refrigerant in the system.
So those are my suggestions. I will be unavailable for the next 5 days, but see if you can make any progress.
Roland
