Questionmy wife's car acted up today. have read your other answers on speed sensors and was curious. Here's my question. When you start up the car and put it in drive, and go down the road everything shifts fine up through the gears. As soon as she slows down for a stoplight, the transmission downshifts very hard. And when she takes off again it will not shift out of first gear as it may be in "limp" mode? we have cleaned the terminals on the speed sensor and torque converter speed sensor and still does this. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is the only transportation. Also this has autostick shift as an option also. Was wondering what to do?
AnswerHi Dusty,
It is actually starting and staying in 2nd gear when it has a malfunction, rather than 1st gear. This is called limp-in mode as you have learned. Here is how I responded to another owner of a '98 which has the same trans, and it is my advice on how to deal with this situation:
It is always appropriate to check the transmission fluid level as shown on its separate dipstick. The level should be checked with the engine warm and at idle with the shift lever in park or neutral. If fluid is below the normal level be sure to add only Chrysler brand fluid through the dipstick tube and don't overfill it.
If that is not the answer to why the trans is not shifting out of 2nd gear then the trans has a self-diagnostic capability that should be taken advantage of. It would be worth going to a dealer or independent (not frachise) transmission repair shop and get a service called
"readout of the transmission computer" which is an electronic test for the presence of coded numbers representing different faults that the transmission is experiencing at the time when it locks up into 2nd gear? That exact lock up is what happens when the transmission computer notices something is wrong and so it protects the transmission by only driving in 2nd gear until it can be serviced so as to protect against any further damage. It is called "limp-in mode".
There is a chance that there is some internal mechanical wear/damage to the internal clutches of the transmission, but because the cost of rebuilding is so high it is worth spending a little on analyzing whether that is true or not. It may also be the case that the problem is with electrical connections/computer or with the transmission fluid system (hydraulic) and those can be repaired without removing or rebuilding the transmission, at much less cost.
The transmission has an electronic controller that has the ability to recognize malfunctions and store them in its memory as four-digit fault codes. An electronic readout device is plugged into a port under the dash to access the memory and tell you the fault code numbers. It would be worth spending about $50 to have this done just in case the problem had to do with the hydraulic or electronic parts rather than the internal mechanical parts because those could be repaired without taking the trans out of the car and dismantling it. So a dealer or a competent independent transmission shop (but NOT a franchise type like Aamco where the usual answer will be to do a "rebuild") with a reader for Chrysler transmissions should be able to do that. Ask for the code number(s), what they mean, what repair is needed and how much it will cost. Their reader has to be equipped with a program (cartridge) that accesses the transmission computer. A Chrysler dealer will have this device called a DRB III.
Then write back and we'll evaluate what you were told, particularly what are the fault code numbers. I have the factory repair manual and can look up what the numbers mean and what needs to be done to fix this.
You don't have to authorize a repair until you decide you understand the situation, and maybe get another repair estimate. You might even ask before they do the readout if in the case you decide to authorize the shop to do the repair "will the cost of the readout be credited against the cost of the repair"?
So take your time with this so you don't authorize unnecessary repairs. The cost of a rebuild is high so getting a second bid is worthwhile and also comparing warranty provisions is wise if that is required.
But that readout is the only way to avoid doing the wrong repair."
Roland
