QuestionPower doors, power locks
Hello Rolland
Quick back story. My cooling fans went out, blew the 30amp RAD FAN HI fuse, and shut down my AC. I replaced the fans and they are cooling great. I replaced the fuse with a 40 so I could have a little AC when driving to purchase a 30amp. With the car running I pulled the 30amp stop light fuse to bring in with me to make sure I got the right one for the RAD FAN HI. I replaced both 30s with the car running. When I got back in the air was still blowing cold.
It was later that day when I discovered the power locks and seats not working. I swapped the 20�s in the dash that powered the windows and locks/seats but the windows continued to word while the doors and seats would not. One other random event is when I pulled and replaced the ABS and Stop lamp fuses (because those were the only other fuses I had messed with) I received a single honk from the car. At one point I shut the hood and the car alarm went off. Very strange. My clicker will still honk the car when I press the lock button but the locks do not move. I searched my book and it suggests taking the car to a dealer to extract codes from the BCM/PCM/PCI.
Thoughts?
Wes
AnswerHi Wes,
O.K., its a '99 LHS. I am a bit limited in not have a manual for that recent a model year but assuming that the wiring for those systems in the '94 LH cars is identical ( for which I have the Chrysler shop manual) I believe that your problem is either a 30 amp fuse in position H of the underhood power distribution center or a circuit breaker under the dash in position #23 (also might be labelled as F35 or posts #45-46, which is the right-most position of the top row of 9) which is powered by the 30 amp fuse. The systems that are out on you car depend upon that fuse and that circuit breaker in series to both be operational.
On all the history, I can't reconstruct anything relevant other than to mention that when you examine fuses you should not only check for a frank blowout but also look carefully at the wire inside for any signs of a crack which can result in intermittant conductance as the fuse heats and cools, and also check the clips to be sure the fuse is held tightly in the socket for conductivity.
Please let me know what you find out, and good luck on solving this. I am a bit busy with home maintenance so excuse any delay in getting back to you.
Roland
Hi Wes,
Two questions: what is the model and year of the car? and there is a strange typo in the second line of the second paragraph which is I guess 20 "amp", correct? Let me know by using the "thank and rate the response" tab at the bottom of this message which will give you a place to "comment", because I am going to be "maxed out" today for the most part doing some homework. Once you tell me the vehicle I will be better able to see what is wrong.
Roland
