QuestionHi Roland,
My alarm system on the lebaron convertible will not disarm. It happened last week and after many hours tried again later that night to find that when I got in the car and played with the door lock switch on door panel the alarm set light went out in dash and the kill switch turned off so the car could start. Funny thing is this week, the battery had to be disconnected so that a door weld could be fixed and that reset the alarm ( i tried not locking the car and using it), there is also 2 wires right above the brake and gas pedals, one is red and is capped off, the other is green and not connected on end. With the green wire not connected the alarm light stayed blinking in the dash and the key would not turn it off. When the green wire was connected to the fuse panel, the light stopped blinking on the dash for the alarm, but as soon as you turned the key alittle the light lit up alarm set. We can not figure out how to repair this problem. Should the green wire not be connected to the fuse box and what can we do about the kill switch and alarm set mode?The car is at a service station that is bewildered by it all...Do you think maybe when they welded the drivers door bottom hinge that is when the green wire was disconnected and that it might have something to do with this. Where should that wire connect to? Again I stress that this is not the first time this alarm stayed set on me, usually figiting with the lock switches and the key fixed it in the past.
Thanks for any help you can lend.
gail
AnswerHi Gail,
I believe the green wire is related to the remote keyless entry module. Do you have such a key fob that operates the door lock from outside the car? If so, try it and see if that will disarm the alarm. The fob approach deals directly with the theft system compared to the door lock switches. The green wire is used to program a new/replacement key fob into the system (each fob puts out a uniques signal). If you can borrow a fob you can program it in by turning the ignition to run, ground the green wire to any shiney metal surface that is attached to the body ( or any ground point, a place where a bunch of black wires are bolted to metal structural element), door locks should lock/unlock spontaneously (if their wiring is o.k.) then press any button on the key fob, (the locks will cycle again), then disconnect the green wire from ground, and try to use the fob to lock/unlock the doors. See if that disarms the system.
If not then here is what I wrote to a fellow with the same problem in his '91 5th Avenue this morning:
"I get this question regularly and I'm trying to get a handle on the answer, so let me know how this gets resolved for you, please.
It should disarm by using the key to lock/unlock either front door. Another way to disarm is using the remote keyless entry if there is one for the car, and that is a more 'active' disarm.
If those do not bring success I would try do the self-diagnostic test on the unit:
A diagnostic mode is available in the system to verify operation of all monitored switches or circuits. To enter diagnostics, cycle the ignition key to the accessory position 3 times, leaving the key in this position.
Upon entering diagnositics, the park and tail lamps will begin flashing to verify their operation. In addition, the horn will sound twice to indicate that the trunk key cylinder is in its proper position. Returning the ignition to the OFF position will stop the lamps from flashing while keeping the system in diagnostics.
While in diagnostics mode, a horn pulse should occur at each of the following events indicating proper operation:
(1) Beginning with all doors closed, open then close each door. The horn will sound when the door ajar switch closes, and then again when the switch opens. There must be a 1 second delay between closing and opening the switch.
(2) Open, then close the hood. The horn will sound when the hood is opened, and again when it is closed.
(3) Activate the power door locks in both the lock and unlock directions. The horn will sound after each activation.
(4) Rotate the key in each of the door lock cylinders to the unlock position. The horn will sound as the switch closes, and again when it opens. There must be a 1 second delay between changing switch states, or the horn will not sound.
(5) Cycle the key to the ignition RUN position. A single horn pulse will indicate proper operation of the ignition input. This will also take the module out of diagnostics mode. For any of these tests, if the switch does not remain open or closed for at least 1 second, the horn will only sound once.
The lack of a horn pulse, during any operation, indicates a switch failure, the lack of that input in the Vehicle Theft Security system module, or a failure internal to the module. Check for continuity at the switch, if this is good, check for an open or shorted wire between the switch and the alarm module. This self-diagnostic test may reveal component failure that is preventing the disarming, and once you correct that, you should be able to disarm the system.
I am expecting to receive a manual for the body systems of the '92 New Yorker that I just purchased on eBay so I might learn something more from that. I do have a manual for the 93-4 Security System but so far I haven't found where it mentions what to do specifically about a failure to disarm.
It makes use of the DRB II diagnostic unit, which I do own, but my '89 LeBaron doesn't have such a system so I haven't had an oppotunity to troubleshoot the theft system with that tool. When I get the '92 manual I'll see if it addresses the theft system and its frailities. I would be willing to lend you the DRB II (with a security deposit), but without the correct manual it won't be helpful.
I wonder if you tried to disconnect the battery and then try the door locks/keyless entry again whether you might be successful. I have the impression though that if by chance there was an attempt to unplug the security module with the engine NOT running at the time, then the system goes into a deeper lockdown that may require the DRB to intervene.
So those are my present thoughts. I would be pleased to learn of your progress, and I will let you know once I get the '92 manual."
I suspect that the wire from the door lock on the door that you had welded has fatigued and broken at the hinge area where it passes to the body. Did you try the other side door lock to see if you could disarm it there?
If the horn doesn't chirp when you are testing the door locks using the self diagnostic test, then that would verify that the wire from the door lock to the body controller is 'open'.
The capped red wire is probably unrelated to the problem.
Good luck on your efforts and please let me know if you discover the cause and the solution.
Roland
