Chrysler Repair: 97 2.5 sebring lxi no start, no fault codes, fuel pump relay, sebring lxi

Question
My car was running fine till I parked it. The next morning it would not start . The fuel pump relay would come on for about 1.5 sec. and would
shut down. No check lite, no error codes. the engine would crank but no fire. Two days later I installed auto xray diagnostic tool to try to monitor system while I was trying to start. At this time the car srarted and has been running fine. What could have caused this problem?  

Answer
Hi Bill,
No start with no codes is always a challenge. The next time it happens be prepared to check for spark by carrying a spare spark plug which you can put into one of the spark plug caps that you remove from the engine. Insert the spare plug and then hold by the rubber, press the threads against the cylinder head while having a friend try the starter. Observe whether you have spark or not. If not, I would suspect the spark coil because the primary circuit is monitored by the controller (may set a code) while the secondary is less monitored.
It could also be a mixture of fuel/air issue. (I doubt it is a fuel pump problem; the momentary operation is normal and part of the safety system). But if your egr valve is getting sticky such as to remain ajar when the engine is shut off it will then dilute the mixture the next time you try and start it. This can be intermittant at the start of the problem. The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
So those are a couple of actions to take now. It can definitely be more easily resolved during a no start incident, so focus at the time on spark and fuel issues at the time it won't start. And of course, keep checking for codes.
Roland