Chrysler Repair: Chrysler Concorde: All Electric Power Shuts Off, chrysler concorde, 2000 chrysler concorde

Question
I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde LXI, the last couple of months it has been acting weird. Like I will drive at night and all of a sudden the interior lights would just flash on and off.  Now the check engine light is on and off every here and now and then. Yesterday I went to start my car and nothing, no lights no power no clicking,nothing, dead. Got ready to call a tow and 10 minutes later, all of a sudden all lights came on and car started up.  Traveled about 3 miles and the car just stopped and all power lost again.  No hazards no brake lights nothing.  20 minutes later the lights come on and car starts right up.  No problems today, (check engine light is still on) but I want to make sure its safe before driving. Can you help me, have you heard of anything like this before? Feels like I have a Ghost in my car, lol.
Thanks in advance
Nicole

Answer
Hi Nicole,
The problem sounds like the battery supply to the vehicle is intermittantly disconnected. This can result from the internal failure of a connection inside the battery but before concluding that is the reason you can easily check all the wires between the battery posts and the car electrical system:
Begin by checking the clamps on the battery posts: see if they are physically loose on the posts by trying to rotate them from side to side, by hand. If one of them seems loose then tighten the bolts on that clamp. If it is the + post clamp (has a red wire, battery says + or pos) then first loosen and remove the - post before putting a wrench on the + post, then tighten the + post nut, then reattach the - post and tighten its nut.
If both clamps seem tight, then I would focus on the wires that are attached to the - post clamp (only has black wires). Follow each of the black wires to its end where it attaches to either the body or to the engine and also note any attachaments along the way. At all the attachment points see if the nuts or bolt heads that hold the wires are loose or the interface between the wire and the attachment surface are rusted, and if any are loosen them attacnment hardware and clean the interface and then reattach the wire and secure the nut or bolt.
On the positive clamp's wires, there is less likelihood of a loose of corroded connection but follow  the black wire to find a torpedo shaped black fitting has a seam in the middle. That is a disconnect that open by twisting the two halves; make sure that it it firmly closed.
After you have checked all those wires and clamps, start the car and leave it in park with the emergency brake on:
then try moving/shaking all the wires and connections that you have investigated to see if you can cause the car to shut off which would reveal where the loose connection is located.
If nothing comes to light that would explain the problem it would be reasonable to tap on the side/top of the battery with a light hammer to see if you can cause a shutdown due to an internal loose connection. But don't overdue it so as to avoid damage to the rubber case of the battery.
I suspect you will find a loose/corroded connection as the reason for the shut down. If not, go to an autoelectric independent shop and ask them to try and find it. If the car goes completely dead, including the emergency flashers, it really does have to be a problem of the type I have described.
Roland