Chrysler Repair: 1996 Chrysler sebring JXi Conv stalls, chrysler sebring jxi, screwdriver blade

Question
i have a 1996 Chrysler sebring JXi Conv. the car has had menay problems, and now i think is the fuel filter, the car will act as if its running out of gas when i let go of the gas petal. and will stall. and could you tell me ho to seal a hole in the exhaust.

Thanks WPR

Answer
Hi William,
My suspicion is that rather than a fuel filter or supply problem that you have a fuel mixture problem, specifically too lean. This is often caused by an exhaust gas recirculation valve (egr) that is stuck, most likely ajar. So you need to try and get it freed up and moving again so that it will be closed when the pedal is released, otherwise it will be difficult to start and to idle.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
You might also try to readout the engine controller for any faults it might have recognized and encoded as a two digit number in the memory. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for the 2.5L engine and we can look up the possibilities of what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show. There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair.
Finally on the exhaust hole, I have had good luck using muffler mending patch or sealer which comes in a round can. You have to polish the metal around the hole, then get a sheet metal screw that is large enough in diameter for its threads to catch in the hole. Apply the sealer to the metal of the edge of the hole and to the threads of the screw and screw it into the hole. Put a little more sealer over the screw head and let it dry for 8 hours. It holds in place for quite awhile and seals the leak.
Roland