QuestionHi,roland my mothers 99 sebring,(sport?)Has right at a hundred thousand miles on it,but has always run fine,and had regular tuneups and maintanence.The problem is the other day i was driving it,and all of a sudden it started sputtering as if i was runnin out of gas,but i had almost a quarter tank.The car stalled out,so i added a liil gas anyway thinkin maybe the gauge was off,but it still wouldnt start.The car will turn over but just wont start,i thought maybe it was the fuel filter,but after readin some forums it seems as though this might be a more complex problem than that.Whattya think,ROLAND!?thanz zykesyke
AnswerHi Zack,
The common things to check are for spark and fuel supply. When it fails to start you can often get to the bottom of the cause, or at least localize it, by doing a simple test or observation at that time. First would be to have a spare spark plug so that you can then pull off one of the spark plug connector caps (twist and pull on the connector proper not the wire) and insert the spare plug. Then find a helper to crank the engine while you touch the threaded end of the spark plug against the cylinder head (holding it by the insulation provided by the disconnected spark plug cap) and observe for a spark to jump the gap or not at all or just for 1-2 seconds of a full 5 second crank. If you don't get any spark then I would suspect the spark coil or autoshutdown relay. If you get spark for 1-2 seconds I would suspect the crankshaft sensor, if you get full 5 seconds of spark, then the spark circuit is o.k.
Then you can listen for the sound of the fuel pump which will run for 1-2 seconds when you turn the ignition switch from off to run position. If not, then the fuel pump could be flakey, or the autoshutdown relay is flakey. A voltage measurement of the output of the relay to the fuel pump would tell you which.
Then another useful thing to do would be to readout the engine controller for fault codes now, which you may be able to do yourself, at anytime. Here is how:
Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout". If the check engine light doesn't flash as I described above, then try the key routine again only this time observe for any numbers to appear in the odometer window that appear to be codes rather than the normal mileage total.
The self-readout feature may not be available in the '99 model year, in which case a code reader needs to be plugged in to an outlet under the dash, and those can be purchased for under $50 specifically for the Chrysler OBD-II engine control system.
But before going to that extreme:
Another reason for failure to start and to sputter while driving at low speeds is that the exhaust gas recirculation valve has gotten cruddy and its action is impeded, which usually means the EGR valve is stuck, most likely ajar. That can give the impression of a fuel supply problem because what is happening is the mixture is being diluted by the exhaust gas. So you need to try and get it freed up and moving again so that it will be closed when the engine is shut down, otherwise it will be difficult to start and to idle.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
So those are several different things to try to get it running again. Feel free to let me know what you observe and how things are going.
Roland
