QuestionOkay, I did the test & the number 920 came up then 999. I pushed the us/m button & all segments displayed & then a 5 appeared. What next? Thanks.
William
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Followup To
Question -
I checked the wires the fuses are all good. The black wire is a reading of 0-omhs,The dark blue wires all read 12-14 on voltage. I held the trip and reset buttons down and started the car and it displayed CHeC. I checked the codes by turning the key on & off three times and the check ingine light flashed a 12 and a 55 code. I even tried reseting the body computer by unhooking the battery for five minutes and that still did not work. the night before this all quit It had rained and stormed really bad. I was told it could have gotten a shock wave gone through it from the storm and might have shorted out something in the body computer or cluster or something else in the electrical. Another thing I wanted to add is that prior to all of this I would say for the past year every once in a while the cluster guages would go to real real bright for a split second & then go back to normal. So thats really the only history except that it seems that since the bad rain everything went haywire. thank you for your help on this.
William
Followup To
Question -
Well I tried what you said with the cleaner on the wire connecters and the probes and it didnt work. Any other suggestions on what I might do to fix this problem? The information in the center bezel has a clock, information button, a US/M button & fuel & temp button. They all light up, but they do not work. The radio is right above the display & it works just fine. The flip down headlight covers do not work. The delay on the wipers do not work, but if you turn them on to hi & low it works. On the digital cluster the gas, heat temp, oil pressure & mileage do not light up. When you turn the key on all the gauges in the cluster light up, but when they light up & go back down. The gauges that I indicated above do not stay lit up after the car is started. The tach, speedometer & the battery gauges all work fine. The power door locks do not lock when you push the button, but they will unlock when you push the button. If you would let me know if you have any more ideas. Thanks again.
William
Followup To
Question -
I have a problem with the gas, heat,mileage and oil gauges not lighting up. It is a digital gauge all in one cluster. Console display system in the middle states monitored systems ok. the fuses are good,the bulbs are good. It is a 1992 chrysler lebaron 2 door convertible. When I start the car the lights all go up and back down but the ones I indicated above dose not light up after they go back down. The console time and date all goes back to jan,1st date when I shut the car off and restart it. Instead of original date and time. It seems to have all the info in the information center wrong. The headlight covers and the delay on the wipers had also quite at the same time. Is there any way you can send me a copy of the wiring diagram? I really would appreciate your timely assistance. Thanks. William.
Answer -
Hi William,
I believe that the most likely reason got all your problems is that there is/are some electrical short circuits associated with the body computer plugs. That unit is mounted above the passenger side kick panel on the inner cowl surface, just below the corner of the windshield where water can leak in and drip down on the top of the computer and its two 25-pin plugs and cause havoc. Whenever there are "gremlins" with the wiring in the cabin that is the cause. The solution is to get a can of electrical circuit spray cleaner from an electronics/computer store. Then remove the body computer from its mounting and inspect the two plugs on the top side for signs of water, crud, contamination, etc. If you carefully remove the surface gunk on the sockers and pins and then spray both the pins and sockets and allow the cleaner to evaporate, then replace the plugs and remount the computer, then give it a try, you may be surprised at the result. This is a common problem with the LeBaron convertible model. I do have the wiring diagrams but they are very copious and I would like to get an accurate description of any units that still don't work using the specific name of each because I am not clear on where the missing data is displayed based on the name of the display.
But give the plugs/sockets a thorough cleaning first.
Roland
Answer -
Hi William,
Well it was worth a look to see how the plugs were doing. After reviewing all the things that aren't working I am really convinced that the problem is with the body computer which is involved in one way or another with all of them. I would begin by verifying that fuse 14 is o.k. and that you are getting 12v on all the pins of the body computer that require that fuses input: 5,6,18 on the natural plug and 6 on the black plug with the ignition switch is in the run position. If the fuse or the switch were cracked or intermittant in its conduction that would kill all the circuits that are powered from that pathway. The wires are all dark blue/white. Check pin 19 of the black plug to verify that it is 0 ohms to ground because it is the only ground wire (black) for the body computer so if it were open it would similarly shut down many circuits. If all of these problem items came up at once it has to be the body computer and so if the powerlines and the ground are good my inclination would be to get a new/used body computer*. The only other possibility is that there is something wrong in the data buss line and that you would need to check with a DRB II (diagnostic readout box, thru the body buss plug under the dash).
Those are my suggestions as to what to do next. Was there any particular history as to how this all started?
Roland
*Be sure to get a body computer from a car with the digital dash, same model year.
There is a self-diagnostic test for the cluster only. Begin by simultaneously pressing the trip and trip reset buttons and while holdind them start the engine, then release the buttons. Observe what you read in the odometer window and we'll go from there.
Answer -
Hi William,
The heavy rain is suspicious. You might try taking out the body computer and letting it dry out in the air for a day or so.
But before doing that, redo the cluster test, and when you get to 'Chec', press the us/met button and see what comes up in the window. The "code" will appear for 10 seconds, then either a single 999 OR some other numbers and then a 999. If just the 999 then hit the us/met again and see if all segments display and then a 5. On the otherhand, if other numbers preceed the 999 let me know what they are. We are working our way thru the cluster test...
Roland
AnswerHi William,
Thank you for the very kind evaluation.
The 920 code says that the messages that the cluster expects to get from the body computer are not being received, which is consistent with what you have observed as to missing data readouts. It points again to the body computer rather than the cluster being the problem. You can go further with the test by keep pushing on the us/met button and you should see the display respond in a new way followed by the numbers 6, 7 and 8 after each push of the button, and finally the bulbs will illuminiate which ends the test and you push the button one more time to end the test and you have shown the cluster passes. If you don't get thru 8 and the bulbs illuminating final phase then that suggests to replace cluster. But let me know if that happens and we'll verify what you saw.
I think the body computer is either soaked and internally shorted out, ideally temporarily, or it has gone bad permanently. Give it a little more time to dry out and then if that doesn't restore it a new/used one is in order.
Roland
