Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
Hi 95 sebrings transmission has something wrong and I was wondering if you could help me identify the problem. I start the car and it runs but won't shift from first and after a short time, less than a minute, it stops running. I can rev the engine but it won't run. I lifted the car and noticed that the wheel still spins but the speedometer doesn't mark anything. It doese mark while the gear is still working. Do have an idea of what it could be?
Answer -
Hi Jose,
It is not exactly clear to me how the transmission is behaving. Are saying that for the first minute it will cause the car to move but it doesn't shift out of first gear, and then after that the car slows down and stops moving entirely?
If that is the case then at least we know that the two drive shafts that connect the transmission to the wheels are o.k.
So then we focus on the transmission. You didn't mention if you hear any abnormal noise coming from the transmission, which if present is not a good sign. But if no abnormal sounds occur, then I would begin by checking the level of transmission fluid showing on its separate dipstick. If it is below the "add" mark I would get a quart of Chrysler brand type 7176 at a dealer and add it by pouring it carefully down the dipstick tube until its level is above the add mark. Then see if runs any better.
If not, then I would tow it to a Chrysler dealer or an independent (but not franchise-type) automatic transmission shop and request that the transmission controller be readout for any coded fault messages (fault codes) that will give us a clue as to what part of the transmission is malfunctioning. Taking advantage of the self-diagnostic feature is important to do so that the correct repair is done at the least amount of cost. Once they have the code numbers write them down, ask what each means, ask what they recommend doing, and how much it will cost. Then before you authorize the repair you can write me back and we can compare their diagnosis with what the manual says might be wrong to see if that is the correct repair to try. You don't have to authorize the repair immediately, just ask for a few hours to decide what you are going to do while the car stays at the shop. The readout will cost about $40.
You noticed something about the speedometer when you have the car off the ground. It may be that unless both wheels are turning in the same direction that the speedometer will not read properly, as one wheel can turn forward while the other wheel turn backward when it it off the ground due to the function of the differential mechanism, so I would't pay any significance to that. The issue is getting it to move the car when the wheels are on the ground.
Roland
Followup- Yes you understood right, thank you for your response, the car makes no noise at all and the fluid is up to the max, it just completely stops running after less than a minute and never shifts to second. When the wheels are off the ground they spin at a constant speed even if I rev the engine. I checked two speed sensors that are located towards the front and according to the tester they are working properly. Right now I don't have a way of taking it to a shop thats why I was wandering if you might have an idea of what it could be to check it out.
Joe
AnswerHi Jose,
If we just ignore the first minute (when it will drive in first gear only) and then I assume it won't go in any position of the gear shifter, not even in reverse, then it is really a "no drive in any position" condition. According to my manual that could result from:
hydraulic pressures too low due to valve body malfunction or leakage, low fluid level, trans fluid filter clogged, or faulty trans fluid pump. All those can be fixed without removing the transmission from the car. But you do have to drop the pans and collect about 7 quarts of fluid in order to get into figuring out which one of thise causes it is. It would be useful to measure the hydraulic pressures before you do that, via the ports on the front side of the transmission using a gauge and a shop manual that shows what the pressures should be.
If it will drive in reverse, then there is not a problem with the overall pressures but rather with the solenoids or the clutches for the forward gears.
Have you tried putting into reverse and seeing if it moves? Also, try moving the shift lever a little bit on either side of the drive detent position and see if that changes the condition. It might be that the cable between the shifter and the tower on the trans is out of adjustment so that when you think you are in drive you are still in neutral.
Let me know what you find out.
Roland
