Question
I have a 1998 Chrysler sebring convertable jx. It was in the shop for repairs with the main power stearing line,they change the line and the car was perfect.
My problem now with my car, it will idle up and the speed kilometer will keep goin up and down unabling me to shift in gear. I will have to wait a few minutes and put the car in drive,and then in reverse in order for it to move. Can you please suggest to me what can be the problem?
AnswerHi Janice,
I can't be sure from what you described whether the problem is with the engine or the transmission. If the engine will not idle smoothly when you are in Park or Neutral then the problem is the engine, but if it misbehaves only when you are driving it, that is more likely the transmission.
In either case both units have an electonic controller that has the ability to notice its difficulties and record them in its memory as fault codes (a four digit number) which is then read from the memory with a reader that is plugged into a socket below the dash at a dealer or a well equiped shop. Here is the information on how I have responded previously to a person who was having a similar problem with their transmission (hers would not shift above second gear, into 3rd or overdrive, which is called 'limp in' mode). It also applies to the engine problem so read it and decide whether you want to try this approach:
"It is always appropriate to check the transmission fluid level as shown on the dipstick which is located under the hood directly in front of the brake fluid reservoir (which itself is at the firewall directly in front of the where the brake pedal is located). The level should be checked with the engine warm and at idle with the shift lever in park or neutral. If fluid is below the normal level be sure to add only Chrysler brand fluid through the dipstick tube and don't overfill it.
If that is not the answer to why the trans is not shifting out of 2nd gear then the trans has a self-diagnostic capability that should be taken advantage of. It would be worth going to a dealer or independent (not frachise) transmission repair shop and get a service called
"readout of the transmission computer" which is an electronic test for the presence of coded numbers representing different faults that the transmission is experiencing at the time when it locks up into 2nd gear. That exact lock up is what happens when the transmission computer notices something is wrong and so it protects the transmission by only driving in 2nd gear until it can be serviced so as to protect against any further damage. It is called "limp-in mode".
The chances are there is some internal mechanical wear/damage to the internal clutches of the transmission, but because the cost of rebuilding is so high it is worth spending a little on analyzing whether that is true or not. It may also be the case that the problem is with electrical connections/computer or with the transmission fluid system (hydraulic) and those can be repaired without removing or rebuilding the transmission, at much less cost.
The transmission has an electronic controller that has the ability to recognize malfunctions and store them in its memory as four-digit fault codes. An electronic readout device is plugged into a port under the dash to access the memory and tell you the fault code numbers. It would be worth spending about $50 to have this done just in case the problem had to do with the hydraulic or electronic parts rather than the internal mechanical parts because those could be repaired without taking the trans out of the car and dismantling it. So a dealer or a competent independent transmission shop (but NOT a franchise type like Aamco where the usual answer will be to do a "rebuild") with a reader for Chrysler transmissions should be able to do that. Ask for the code number(s), what they mean, what repair is needed and how much it will cost. Their reader has to be equipped with a program (cartridge) that accesses the transmission computer. A Chrysler dealer will have this device called a DRB III.
Then write back and we'll evaluate what you were told, particularly what are the fault code numbers. I have the factory repair manual and can look up what the numbers mean and what needs to be done to fix this.
You don't have to authorize a repair until you decide you understand the situation, and maybe get another repair estimate. You might even ask before they do the readout if in the case you decide to authorize the shop to do the repair "will the cost of the readout be credited against the cost of the repair"?
So take your time with this so you don't authorize unnecessary repairs. The cost of a rebuild is high so getting a second bid is worthwhile and also comparing warranty provisions is wise.
But that readout is the only way to avoid doing the wrong repair."
So Janice, the same readout of the engine controller will tell us any codes for whether it is the source of your problem. But please be sure to get the exact list of all the fault codes by number from the readout. Then tell me what they are, what the dealer/shop proposes to do, and for what cost. The complexity of modern powertrains pretty much requires these codes to do the proper repairs.
Roland
