Chrysler Repair: voyager starting problems, board memory, fault finder

Question
hi i am desperate for advice and help. i own a 1999 voyager 3.3 turbo diesel, british one. two weeks after buying it it would not start, not cranking, called rac. they got it going by taking out the on board memory fuse, started fine for a while, but the dash board, central locking and stereo did not work, took it to a dealer and was told no fault codes were showing, i was not very impressed with the dealer, a few weeks later got the same problem, took the fuse out worked again.  This has been going on now for about 6 months. the fuse is permanately out of the car but it still does not start properly, the car will start then after about 3 secs will stop. after you have done this approx 3 times it starts and stays running, i was told to check the immoboliser light to see if it flashes when it stops but the light does not flash.  I have purchased a fault finder box and it is showing the following codes po313 and (po713 pending). the car also has to be started on a daily basis or the battery goes flat, i am having to disconnect the battery and reconnect it every time i want to use it. I need to take this car to London to visit a sick relative in hospital but i am scared that i will get stuck up there with a car that wont start.
many thanks
jo  

Answer
Hi Jo,
I am a bit limited in only having access to the Haynes (UK) manual for the '97-'99 vans which shows only parts of the wiring diagrams. It would be better if I had the official Chrysler shop manual but I haven't been able to get one at a reasonable price on eBay auction site yet.
I believe I understand what fuse has been removed. In '98 (the manual doesn't show '99 but I assume the circuitry is identical) it is listed as a 10 amp #28 in the power distribution center under the hood. That one does power the body computer, door locks and stereo, and the immobilizer dash light too. So please verify that #28 is the fuse that is removed.
The failure to start well (dies in 3 seconds, several starts required) could be a manifestation of the theft system but it could also be just a diesel starting problem. I would lean toward the latter because of the fuse also powering the theft security system.
On the codes, I have checked all my manuals and interestingly cannot find a listing for either of those numbers which may mean that they are specifically keyed to the diesel engine (and I don't have a troubleshooting manual for a diesel Chrysler engine).
So now as to the question of the battery drain down, I would suggest that you acquire a volt-ohm-amp meter (particularly the ohm-amp meter functions) so as to try and identify the fuse and circuit powered by that fuse which is drawing current when van is shut down. You would put the meter either in series with the + cable of the battery (e.g. attach one of the leads to the + cable after you detach that cable from the battery and the other lead to the + post of the battery so that the meter when set to 'amps' will show you the amount of current flowing from the battery into the power distribution center) or use the 'ohm' function as described below. Then one at a time remove each fuse, note how much the current drops, replace the fuse, and work your way thru all the fuses. Then note which circuit is indicated to be powered (if such labels are given) and/or the # of the fuse. Then write me back with the results and we'll figure out the balance of the circuit and items that are supplied by that fuse. From there we'll do the same thing with the fuse box under the dash (several fuses there being powered by each fuse in the distribution center in most cases) until we hone in on which component is faulty and thus drawing the battery power away.
If you already have access to a meter but it only is volt-ohm type that could be used the same way but instead of putting the meter as I described above you would disconnect the + cable, put the + ohm lead of the meter on the detached cable, and the other lead of the meter on the - post of the battery (with its cable still attached) or to any metal body part if that is more convenient since the body is attached to the - cable. Then you would measure the ohm reading and go thru the same fuse pull/replace exercise only watch for a fuse which causes the ohm reading to rise significantly (rather than fall as with the amp approach).
If we can get rid of the faulty draw of current you can then drive the van without fear of it discharging or needing to remove the cable after every use.
You would want to do these meter measurements with everything shut off, just like when you leave the car at rest. If because you have the bonnet up there is an engine compartment lamp that is 'on' just remove it from its socket. We will probably find a light bulb somewhere else that is not supposed to be on that is draining the battery.

Roland