Chrysler Repair: Stalling and Rpm loss, air intake hose, vacuum hose

Question
We are having the same trouble with our 2000 convertible. 6 cylinder
Intermittent stalling, sometimes at high speeds and sometimes at low speeds. One other symptom is that while it stalled on the highway last time, I realized that the gas pedal lost all resistance. It almost felt like the return spring had been removed or broken. The pedal returned to the up position when I let off of it, but it had no friction or resistance.
Once we sat for a couple of minutes, the car started right up and drove for another few hundred miles before it stalled again. We have checked for codes and there are none.
Any other ideas on where to look?  

Answer
Hi Ken,
I assume that the fault code check was done with a readout box because to the best of my knowledge that is the only way to get the codes. If not, then try that approach at a shop, for the codes. It might cost $40 for a readout.
That observation about the loss of resistance makes me think that you may want to clean off the both sides of the the throttle plate at the throttle body and the throat and the idle by-pass channel in the same location because buildup of blow-by and recirc gas can cause the kind of problem you are having and might even be thick enough to foul up the throttle valve motion. Just remove the air intake hose at the throttle body to gain access and use some carb cleaner and q-tips to clean things up.
The other possibility is a faulty/sluggish egr valve. On your engine it is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't idle properly, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step.
Please let me know if either of these suggestions helps.
Roland