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Followup To
Question -
Driving threw town then it just shut off...pushed it to side of road... It gave no warning...It's a 1989 Dodge Spirit 2.5L Turbo... Now I came to figure out that the coil is not getting power EXCEPT for when I just first turn the key to the running position it will get power for like a second. It doesn't look like there is any problem in the wiring.
Answer -
Hi Chris,
Your observation is correct, even for an engine control system that is working properly. What you need to do is make the same measurement while uyou or a helper crank the car for 5 seconds. If you get voltage to the + post of the coil for only 1-2 seconds that corroborates that the likely cause of the no start is that the hall effect sensor for the timing signal has gone out. You can verify this by doing a code readout of the memory of the engine constroller:
Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout". Code 11 is the one for a faulty hall effect sensor in the distributor.
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair. The code 11 would suggest buying a new double hall effect sensor unit and replacing the one in the distributor. I believe these are sold as a unit, not separately.
Let me know if some other codes come up or this doesn't give you direction.
Roland
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Yes I Did The Check Engine Light Diag. And It Was A 12 And I Had Disconnected My Battery... Yep But I Have Never Heard Of A Hall Effect Sensor Unless You Are Talking About The Pickup In The Distributor Which I Came To Find Out Tells Your Computer To Make The Coil Power Up... But is There Anyway To Tell If The Pickup is Bad...
AnswerHi Chris,
The code for a bad sensor unit (hall effect type) in the distributor or a turbo is an 11 or 54 depending upon which one went bad. Did you read the codes before you disconnected the battery but after the car stalled? Of did you read the codes only after having disconnected the battery and after the car stalled? Try starting it again for a few seconds, then read the codes again, just to be sure you don't get an 11 or a 54.
Did you check for spark (e.g.,pull a spark plug wire cap, plug in old spark plug, ground its threads to the cylinder head, have someone crank it for 5 seconds, watch for spark) at one of the spark plugs during a 5 second crank? Did you check for 12V at the + post of the coil during a 5 second crank if you didn't get spark for 5 seconds? Do you hear the fuel pump run for about 1-2 seconds when you turn the ignition switch to "run" position?
All those are necessary tests to run if I am going to be able to give you advice.
