Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I just pulled my 96 plymouth grand voyager (3.3 litre w/ auto trans) out of the driveway, and it started to sputter and die. I noticed it was idling pretty rough in the driveway. it's about 15 degrees F, and the temp has been fluxuating between 15 F and 0 F all day. When I step on the gas, it doesn't respond right away, and when it does, it sort of lurches forward & dies - lurches forward & dies, etc... wondering if gas line antifreeze will help, or have I got bigger problems?
Answer -
Hi Luke,
It's been so long that I have had to operate a vehicle at 15F I was pleased that you suggested one possible fix! I would try that. But also you might want to check the engine controller for any fault codes that might be stored in its memory. These are two digit numbers that readout by counting flashes of the check engine light.
The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the fault codes to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair. I should be able to help you if you get any codes other than 12 and 55. (12 pops up if the battery is disconnected recently).
Roland,
in California
Roland,
Sorry I haven't gotten back... The van seemed to start fine 2 days later, and has been fine ever since. I put some Prestone cold weather fuel treatment in it, and it seems ok... I got those numbers from the "Service Engine" procedure... they are 12-31-55... not sure if you're able to tell me anything else...
cheers
Luke
AnswerHi Luke,
I am glad to learn that the van is running better. On the codes, the 55 is just a "period" at the end of the readout to tell you that the readout has ended. The 12 means that sometime if the past 50-100 key on-off cycle the voltage supply to the engine control module was disconnected, usually because the battery itself was disconnected. If that is not true then maybe checking the battery cable clamps would be worthwhile. Be careful not to ground the wrench when it is on the + post of the battery for that can produce an immense current and a burn to your hand.
On the 31, that is saying that there is a malfunction of the system that captures and recycles gasoline fumes that otherwise would reach the atmosphere. The system includes hoses from the fuel tank and engine to a charcoal canister under the body, a leak detection pump, a solenoid that is electrically operated, and a valve to control the collection and recycling process. The most common cause for that code is a leak in a vacuum hose at one of its end conections. There is a schematic drawing of this "evap" system on a sticker under the hood (either on the radiator support panel or the underside of the hood). Use that drawing as a roadmap to located the hoses and inspect them for fitting looseness or damage/cracks. If there were to be such a hose leak between the canister and the intake manifold (which is the way the fumes are recycled (thru the engine to be burned)) then that could contribute to hard starting. So it would be worthwhile looking for a leak like that. The other possibility for the code is that there is an electical short or open in a wire that controls the purge valve via an electrical solenoid. Such a short would cause the system to recycle (purge) when the engine is cold and not well prepared for that to happen. So you might inspect the wiring to the solenoid/valve unit in the engine compartment to make sure there is no damage to the wiring.
That code 31 will self-erase if you fix the trouble in about 50-100 key cycles. Or you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes which erases all codes except 12 and 55, and re-read for codes after running the van on a few trips. If the problem is solved the 31 code will not return.
Roland
