Chrysler Repair: 95 Cirrus wont start, but does turn over., chrysler cirrus, egr valve

Question
My 95 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5L V6 has had trouble starting over the past week. It would take a few tries with it turning over, but not firing before it would catch. Later in the afternoon it would still have a little trouble, but not as much as the morning. In the past few days, it has not started no matter what. I have verified spark (using the spark plug against the metal block trick to show sparking). I have tried starting fluid into the intake, but it will not catch even for a second. My codes using the on-off-on-off-on ignition key sequence are 12, 32, 55. I understand 12 is the loss or removal of battery, and 55 is the end of code, but the 32 doesn't make sense to me. The book says it is something dealing with the EGR, but only in 90-92 year vehicles. Does the EGR prevent the vehicle from starting? What should I try next?

Answer
Hi Ric,
My '96 manual for the car says there is an egr on all the engines for the Cirrus so the code would be applicable and relevant to your '95. It is saying that when the engine control module tests the egr it doesn't seem to function, which usually means the EGR valve is stuck, most likely ajar. So you need to try and get it freed up and moving again so that it will be closed when the engine is shut down, otherwise it will be difficult to start and to idle.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start. In the absence of any code other than 32 this is the best approach to getting the car to start.
Roland