Chrysler Repair: no spark, chrysler lebaron, neutral safety switch

Question
car has no spark do i follow currnt instructions

Followup To
Question -
Hello. I have 1990 3.0 liter chrysler lebaron is there a solenoid if so where is it?  I have 12.5 volts at the battery and 12.5 at the starter but the car does not start. Can I jump out the solenoid? Can it be a bad PCM, solenoid or bad ignition coil? I appreciate all of your advice.
Thank you
Answer -
Hi Joy,
By "not start" I asume you mean the starter motor is not turning over. If so, then the circuit to energize the solenoid at the starter motor (which is the brown wire at the starter) that comes from the starter relay' switch mounted on the driver's side strut tower, and that switch in turn gets it power from the 12 ga. black wire coming to the relay which is always hot because it is connected directly to the battery is not getting that battery current thru to the solenoid.
So if you aren't getting 12v to the brown wire at the starter when you try the starter motor from the ignition switch via the key, then either:
the ignition switch is not making contact and sending its 12v to the relay actuator coil (check the yellow wire at the relay to see it is shows 12v when you try with the key) or the other end of the actuator coil of the starter relay is not grounded (check the brown/yellow wire at the relay) because the park/neutral safety switch on the trans is not doing its grounding function (located on the trans), or of course there could be a bad wire connection between any of these points. But see what the voltage situation is at the brown wire of the starter motor; also listen to hear for a loud click from the starter solenoid, listen to a quiet click from the starter relay, all three of which would verify that the ignition key switch is working. If you have the loud click and no action then the starter motor itself or the solenoid is bad; if you don't get the loud click and you do get 12v on the brown wire then the solenoid is bad,
if you don't get the 12v on the brown wire then the relay is bad or the acutuator circuit for the relay (key switch, relay coil, safety switch) is bad. You can sort this out with a voltmeter and a helper to operate the ignition key.
The "solenoid" is the device at the starter motor that closes the seitch that sends the battery power on the big red wire to the motor proper and also flicks the bendix gear out, and you can always try jumping from that big red wire to the brown wire at the starter to see if the motor and solenoid are working, but be careful because the big wire is hot and if you accidentally touch it to ground you can get a bad burn.
Roland

Answer
Hi Joey,
Aha! The original 'subject' was "location of solenoid" and there being only one solenoid (on the starter) I had assumed that you meant the starter motor wasn't working. Now that I understand and that we have the correct 'subject' "no spark" let me paste in a response I gave to the identical question earlier this year:
"The standard approach begins with two actions. One is to read out the engine controller for the presence of fault codes that would give a clue. I'll tell you how to do that later.
The other is to check the primary circuit of the spark coil to see whether and how long it is being energized during a 5 second crank. You need a voltmeter or neon glow lamp to do that. Just attach one lead to the + post of the spark coil (dark green/black wire) and the other lead to the - post of the battery or anyother grounded metal part on the engine. Then if you can watch the meter (or light) crank the engine and see if you get 12V power for a full 5 seconds of cranking, 1-2 seconds, or not at all. (If you can't observe from the driver's seat have a helper crank the engine for 5 seconds.) If you get the full 5 seconds then the coil or connection to the engine controller is bad, if you get it for 1-2 seconds then it is probably the ignition signal from the distributor that has been lost, and if you don't get any power at all it is either the autoshutdown relay or the controller itself that is bad.
But let me know, before you jump to any conclusion, because there are futher tests to do, depending upon which response you get.
To read out the codes, which are two digit numbers, just turn the ignition switch
"on-off-on-off-on" within a 5 second period.
Then
watch to see the check engine light to begin to flash, followed by a pause then more flashes, pause, etc. Count the
number of flashes before each pause and write down these
numbers as they come. (Repeat the readout to make sure that you have the numbers correctly).
The last two groups of flaches will always be five
flashes each, which is the number 55 (because the codes
are all two digit numbers), and 55 means the readout
is completed. Then going over all the numbers you have
written down, group them in pairs in the order that they came out to form the other
two-digit numbers that constitute the "fault' codes for your
present situation.
Write back and tell me what you found and I'll give you further suggestions."
So forget everything I said about the starter circuit.
Roland