QuestionDear Roland,
I have a 1994 Dodge Shadow, automatic, 4cyl with only 51000 miles on it. Its been alittle squeaky running the past week, but its also been raining for a week. However tonight I tried the ac-on-ac-on-ac-on sequence my dad used to use on my mom's shadow years past. When I did this, the check engine light flashed 3 times, paused, 2 times, paused and then 5 times. I was wondering if you could point me in a direction of what this means, (whats wrong with the car). Iknow that fan belt is a bit over due for a change (I believe it might be the orignal), but I don't know if that is what the code is telling me, I've just done the spark plugs. Please Help, I'm nervous to drive 300 miles home this weekend, not knowing what is wrong.
Thank you so much!
AnswerHi Rose,
The 32 code says that the engine control computer has detected a flaw in the exhaust gas recirculation valve. But that would only be a correct observation if your check engine light also comes on when you drive and you have the conventional fuel capable engine (rather than the one that can use alcohol in varying amount called a flexible fuel capability). In the latter there is no exhaust gas recirc valve so it is a 'phantom' code. In either case, the valve would not squeak (or make any noise) so that is not the source of your noise. At worst if the valve stuck open it would make it vary difficult to idle the engine or even start the engine, and I will attach a method for checking out the valve later*.
The squeak as you surmised might be due to a worn accessory drive belt (the fan is electrical so that term "fan belt" is a bit inaccurate, rather the 3 belts drive the A/C compressor, the generator and water pump, and the power steering unit). The squeak could also be a bearing in any one of those devices, if the sound is coming from that front end of the engine. The best thing to do would be to use a rubber tube/hose about a foot long as an "ear horn" (like a stethiscope) to focus one ear by holding the tip of the hose near the different components that are driven by pulleys and those 3 belts to see if you can determine whether there is one in particular that is making the noise. Also, if the noise tends to disappear after the car has run for a few miles I would not be too concerned about it as regards your trip this weekend. The waterpump has a tendency to behave that way on the 4 cyl engine without being a cause for alarm. It would only be a concern if the noise is persistent after the engine has had a chance to warm things up and also seems to be getting louder as time goe on in which case it would be prudent to find out what specifically is the source before you go.
Roland
*On the egr valve (assuming that you have the standard 2.5L engine)it is located behind the engine (between the engine and the firewall) and it is closer to the front of the engine; so stand on the passenger side and look down and in behind the engine for the egr valve which has a pipe coming from the exhaust manifold to its underside and a pipe from its body going to the intake manifold. There is a vacuum operated round fitting on its top, and also a vacuum line going to an electrically operated black plastic valve closer to the engine, nearer the throttle body. Look under the round fitting (which is mounted on a saddle with openings for access to view) on the top of the valve where you will see a vertical rod with a slot in it which is the valve stem. Take a straight blade screwdriver and use the slot to lever the valve up (against spring pressure) and see if it is dropping back down due to spring's action and closing positively. Put WD-40 spray on the stem to loosen it up in that motion if necessary. Check to make sure the vacuum lines are all attached and not cracked. Then warm up the engine and observe the slot to see if it goes up when you rev the engine to 2500 rpm and then drops back down fully, closing the valve, when you let the engine go back to idle rpm. Make sure that the fully down position is really down because if it is not fully closing when you let go of the accelerator and coast that will cause the engine to stall. It may be that to get it to close you'll have to unbolt it and clean out the gas flow passage past the valve due to buildup of exhaust fumes in the valve as sticky crud deposit around the internal valve.
