Questionlol
Thanks a lot Roland.
The car is where it's been since I bought it, it's a shame really, it doesn't look that bad especially since I only paid $1000 for it. It's hopefully still in the parking lot where I left it, or she left it I should say.
Would a new battery be easier, or should I just charge up the old one?
Thanks again for everything. I'm wrapping up here, so I'll take your advice as soon as I get back.
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Followup To
Question -
I forgot to say that this all happened around December/January or so.
I had a friend try to jump the battery, he had an El Camino and we were both a bit surprised at what we found under the hood. He didn't even know where the battery was. Luckily we figured it out but to no avail.
He thought it was weird since even if the battery were dead it would at least churn, he said. Also that it was odd that the gauges didn't light up or reset, especially if the headlights were working, so he ruled out the battery being the problem. He may have said that I may have needed a new alternator. Doing a bit of research today (ya, it's way too late) it seemed like that may be what I needed since it generates power for just about everything. But You're the car expert :) I just want to give you all the info I have.
So, if I don't get enough power to the starter, it won't make a peep?
I really get no reaction out of the car, not one sound.
I really appreciate all the advice, I'm in Iraq right now, so I can't really start on it, but I go home soon and I'll tinker around my car with my friend
if he's around on our two weeks off.
Greatfuly,
Luis
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Followup To
Question -
I bought a '96 Chrysler Sebring JX Convertible last November.
It sat for a few months while I had business trips and was searching for insurance companies.
Anyway, one day I checked out the car and it would not start. None of the gauges would light up and neither would the engine crank or make any noise. The headlights still worked though.
I asked a coworker who used to own a Sebring what it could be. He said it could be the computer for the car. that's all he told me before I left for Iraq.
The girl who sold me the car said that she had the starter replace and other than that, it's the only thing that has been done to the car that she knew of
I don't know much about troubleshooting cars and I came across your ad.
Any advice is appreciated.
Luis
Answer -
Hi Luis,
In the 10 months since you got the car enough time has passed for the battery to be partially discharged and/or for its connections to be compromised so much that they will not pass current efficiently, so that while the headlights will illuminate the current necessary for the starter motor will not be sufficient. I would suggest that you check the battery posts, remove the negative cable first then the positive (replace them in the reverse order positive first then the negative) and make sure the post and the inner surface of the clamp is shiney (use emory cloth or a battery post brush). There is a tube of battery post compound you might want to buy and apply lightly to the shiney surfaces to preserve the conductivity in the future before reattaching the clamps. But even before you do that:
If you have a battery charger* or there is service station which will charge your battery I would do that while you have the cables off. Then while the cables are disconnected follow each of the cables to find places where they attach to the body or various components and make sure the attachment points are tight and if they look to be oxidized or rusted remove the nut or bolt and clean up the surfaces to assure good conductivity. There is a main red cable from
either the + post of the battery or from a box near the battery called the power distribution center (which is itself connected to the + post of the battery) that goes to the starter and you should follow that one to make sure the cable is attached firmly to the starter motor. Finally reconnect the battery cables: + post first then finish with the - clamp.
Then see if the engine will crank. If it won't then look inside the power distribution box near the battery which when you open its lid has relays and fuses in it. One of the relays is for the starter motor and it should click softly when you try the starter, so listen for that sound. If you hear the click that is a sign that the ignition switch and the neutral/park safety switch are working. That reminds me, you might want to move the transmission shift knob one way or the other slightly off the detent position for neutral or park just in case that safety switch is not aligned properly. Let me know if all this doesn't result in response from the starter motor.
Roland
*You can buy a battery charger for under $25 that is very handy to have if the car is parked near enoungh to a 110V source, or you can remove the battery and carry it to your residence and charge it there overnight.
Answer -
Correct Luis,
When the battery voltage drops below the level necessary to turn the starter motor you will then hear a fairly loud click from the starter motor as the solenoid switch closes to apply the battery current to the motor windings, but the motor doesn't turn. If the voltage drops some more then the solenoid switch won't make that loud click, but the starter relay that I described as having a soft click will still do that if you have the power distribution box open so you can listen nearby for it. And finally even that soft click will be inaudible if the battery is really low or the ignition switch/safety-neutral switch/or relay itself is bad. So your ears will tell you a lot even if you don't have a volt meter.
Where is the car? I hope you can get back to it safely.
Roland
AnswerI would see if there is a date of purchase sticker on/or a warranty in the glove box for the battery. It it is fairly new (say less that 3 years) I would be inclined to try charging it. You can often get a parts store to test it/charge it to see if it will take a charge and that would be my inclination. If it were near the end of its warranty period then the chances are it won't charge very well.
