QuestionI took my car in to the shop today and was told that I'd need a whole new transmission. The mechanic went over the diagnostic with me and it showed that the CVI for the 3rd or 4th gear was ~140. I've called a couple of places and the running quote for a new trans. is about $1500. Just wanted to make sure this matches up with what you think. A side note, the mechanic I dealt with was fantastic, he talked me through the diagnostic, showed me a dismantled transmission to illustrate what was wrong, and didn't charge a penny for the diagnostic. Thanks again for all the help with my Chrysler saga, it has been very appreciated.
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I replaced the crankshaft position sensor (twice, since the one that I bought from Autozone was no good), and the car now will not shift out of second gear once it has warmed up. I read some of your old posts so I'm assuming this means the car is in "limp-home mode". I had forgotten but the car did this once before a few weeks ago, before it died the second time. The diagnostic codes still read out the same (12, 11, 55). Any suggestions? Thanks again for all your help so far.
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Thanks for the quick response. I checked the codes several times and I got 12 (battery or computer recently disconnected), 11 (bad Hall effect), and 55.
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I have a 1994 3.3L Chrysler Concorde. A few months ago after driving for about 45 minutes in the heat with the AC running, I parked and the car was off for about 5 minutes. When I tried to start it again the engine would turn over but would not engage. I tried giving it gas and turning off all of the electrical systems but none of that helped. After about 20 minutes of frustration, the car suddenly started up without a problem and ran fine. This happened again a few weeks ago and once again after sitting for about 30 minutes it started up without a problem. A few days later, after driving on the highway for about an hour and a half traffic slowed down drastically. As I slowed down, the car stalled. I tried starting the engine and once again it would turn over but not catch. This time I waited for an hour and a half before it would start again. When I stopped for gas later on the same trip it did the same thing, and I had to wait about 45 minutes for it to start back up. I've only encountered this problem when driving for longer than ~30 minutes (I've never had this happen with short trips around town). The engine is not overheated, and there is no smell of gas. It's been suggested that I replace my fuel filter and perhaps fuel pump. Before I do anything though I thought I'd consult you, thank in advance for the help!
Answer -
Hi Devin,
This history makes me wonder if you might have a hall effect (solid state) sensor that is getting flakey when it gets warm. This is exactly how they usually behave when they are failing. The sensor that causes a no start is usually the crankshaft sensor.
The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the fault codes that may stored in the engine controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout". The code for the crankshaft sensor is 11 and for the camshaft sensor is 54.
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers.
So check the codes and let me know what you find.
Roland
Answer -
Hi Devin,
Well that would suggest to me that you buy a new crank sensor and install it. Note that the paper on the working end is a spacer that you should leave in place, just insert the sensor until it touches the surface of the trans flex plate disk and then tighten down the design specific retaining bolts to 105 inch pounds or about 9 foot-pounds.
Roland
Answer -
Hi Devin,
Yes that is limp-in mode. Other than to check the level of fluid in the trans the only thing to do it to get the codes readout at a dealer or independent trans shop. The readout is done with a 6 pin plug under the dash, not the one in the engine compartment which reads out the engine controller but not the trans controller. So if you go to an independent shop verify that they have the Chrysler body plug and a trans reader program that will work on the Chrysler of '94.
Get the code numbers, what they believe it means, what they would propose to do, and how much it should cost. Then write back and we'll compare notes. Maybe you can get them to agree to apply the cost of the readout to the repair job, if you authorize the work to be done. The main point of the readout in this is to evaluate the possibility that it is merely electronic or hydraulic which could be repaired without removing the trans from the car. If either of those were the case, then that less drastic approach would be worth doing rather that to authorize a "rebuild" with its attendant costs. It should cost about $50 to get the trans readout.
Some owners have had success by having the pans dropped, and if no debris was found, then changing the filter and puting in Chrysler make fluid to fill the trans. You don't really change all the fluid (only about 1/3) but some dirt might flow out of the valve body which could be responsible for the limp. You can power flush the trans and the cooling unit and that way replace all the trans fluid, but that will cost more and maybe be of no use if the codes showed the issue included internal damage which wold require the expensive removal and rebuild. Debris in the pans pretty much dictates removing and rebuilding the trans.
So those are the strategies to try at this point.
Roland
AnswerHi Devin,
It sounds like you found an honest mechanic and a competent shop. The price is similar to what others have reported. The only aspect I can't relate to is the "cvi of ~140". Do you recall what that refers to? What should the number have been if there was nothing wrong with 3rd and 4th? Otherwise I can't offer much to the diagnostic question. Did he say what the length of the warranty period will be?
Roland
