Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
For a few months while driving at night I've noticed a burning or melted plastic smell in my car. I later figured out that this only happens at night when I'm running with my headlights on. The burning smell got worse and eventually it would be really strong right away were it used to take an hour or so. Now the lights won't turn on. Parking, daytime and highbeams all work. however I can turn on the highbeams I can only flick them on they don't switch and stay on. I've also noticed the light switch used to get very warm. The fog lights also don't come on and neither does the little light telling me the fog lights are on. Both lights are out and I'm %100 sure they aren't burned out. My thinking was there is an electrical short in the switch. How do I take apart the dash or the switch to see if I can have a look at the switch?
Answer -
Hi Corey,
You begin by opening the door and seeing the end cap on the dash (where it meets the door face). The end cap is held in place by clips (two on top, one at bottom) and you can try pulling on it sharply with your fingers or levering to the outside with a screw driver. Underneath that you should find a screw which if removed will allow you to remove the headlamp switch bezel (surround). Then remove the screws that hold the switch in place, pull it out and remove the electrical plug on the rear of the switch. There is a table that lists the expected resistance readings between the various 15 pins on the switch which I could copy and mail to you if you want to check out the switch proper to verify it is defective. The other thing to do would be to look over the plug and its wires to see if there are any wires shorted together.
Let me know if you need the switch table or 5 pages of the wiring diagrams for the headlamp system. I don't have a scanner so I'll need to xerox and mail them to you. I am working from the Haynes 93-97 manual for the LHS, Concorde, and Intrepid.
Roland
Could you tell me what the readings should be off the wires going into the headlight switch? I've found that the switch is ok and the wires don't seem to be shorted.
AnswerHi Corey,
Here is the table:
All switches off
7-5 to 8-2 10-12k ohms
7-5 to 8-6 10 to 12 k
8-2 to 8-6 6 to 7 ohms
7-5 to 8-5 variable
8-2 to 8-5 variable
8-6 to 8-5 variable
Headlamps on
7-7 to 7-6 continuity
7-4 to 7-5 continuity
7-4 to 8-2 10-12k
7-4 to 8-6 10-12k
7-4 to 8-5 variable
Parking lamps on
7-4 to 7-5 continuity
7-4 to 8-2 10-12k
7-4 to 8-6 10-12k
7-4 to 8-5 variable
Thumb wheel dim
7-5 to 8-5 continuity
8-2 to 8-5 10-12k
8-6 to 8-5 10-12k
Thumb wheel bright
7-5 to 8-5 10-12k
8-2 to 8-5 900-1.1K
8-6 to 8-5 900-1.1k
Thumb wheel dome lamps
7-5 to 8-5 10-12k
8-2 to 8-5 900-1.1k
8-6 to 8-5 900-1.1k
8-2 to 8-5 continuity
8-2 to 8-3 continuity
Front fog lamps on
7-7 to 7-6 continuity
7-4 to 7-5 continuity
7-4 to 8-2 10-12k
7-4 to 8-6 10-12k
7-4 to 8-5 variable
7-1 to 7-2 continuity
8-2 to 7-1 continuity
8-6 to 7-1 6 to 7
8-5 to 7-1 variable
I also have the wiring diagrams so let me know if the switch checks out o.k.
Roland
Hi Corey,
I'm a lttile pressed for time at this moment, but I'll write back later tonight. In the meantime, could you verify that it has a 7 pin and a 8 pin connector, and could you mention what position the various control switches were in when you got the smell of plastic melting?
It is quite a lengthy table to type in and so I might be able to shorten the task if I knew that.
Thanks
Roland
