QuestionI have just bought a 2004 chrysler sebring. one day the radio turned it's self off then on again, a few days later I stalled at traffic lights. I was able to restart.(the car is automatic) A week later, I have just gone to start the car it started then immediatley cut out and now won't start at all, but the lights work so the battery isn't dead.any ideas? The car was running fine in between these events.
AnswerHello v snailham,
I assume by 'won't start' that you mean the starter motor will not crank the engine, which is better described as won't crank.
Begin with the battery and check that both cable clamps are tightly bolted to the posts. Try wiggling the clamps and if they rotate then tighten the nuts but be careful when touching the + post to not let your wrench touch any part of the car or battery other than the nut. You might also check the wires attached to the - post along their lengths to make sure any clamps on them are tightly attached wherever you find an attachment. That will guarantee that you have good current carrying capacity needed to crank the starter motor.
Then to power up the starter motor you need at least one fuse and four components to all be working. Check all the 10 amp fuses in the power distribution center under the hood (a rectangular box near the battery). If those check out then the components are the ignition switch, the starter relay, the park/neutral safety switch, and the solenoid switch on the starter proper. THe ighnition switch can be tested electrically, but lets not get into test with a meter unless we have to. Just try the ignition key firmly in the start position to verify that it isn't flakey. Then on the park/neutral safety switch, turn the key to the start position and hold it there, but move the gear shift lever slightly off position either way to see if you can get the starter to operate, If it does then that switch needs its position to be adjusted. On the relay, open the power distribution center and have a helper try to start the car. Listen for the sound of a click which would verify that the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch are both o.k. If you don't get a click then the relay is likely bad and needs to be replaced. If it clicks then that is o.k. Then listen when the helper tries the starter to see if you hear a louder click coming from behind the engine where the starter motor is located. If you don't hear that then the solenoid switch is likely bad. It you do, then either the wire direct from the battery to starter motor is loose, or the starter motor is at a 'dead spot' on its armature, or the motor is entirely bad. The wire from the battery is the big fat one and it is hot at all times, so disconnect the battery before you try to tighten its attachment nut at the motor so you don't cause a short through your wrench and burn yourself. It is also possible that the thinner brown wire at the starter solenoid that comes from the starter relay is loose or damaged, so just verify that it is attached. We would need to verify its condition with a voltmeter.
But try those sequence of steps and let me know what happens.
Roland
