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Roland,
when i run the heater/ ac in my 1988 2.2 liter Labaron and i come to a stoplight or sign the ac cycles and the car shakes like a tank when i am driving it down the road the car feels like it is losing power , this also happens when i am am slowing and turning into a parking space with the ac or heater on or off, help! and thanks jim ps. how do i respond to your answer?
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Hi Jim,
Because you say the engine falters with or without the a/c or heater in use, I suspect then that those uses are not causing the problem but rather are an effect of the problem. Two approaches make sense to try:
The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the fault codes that may stored in the engine controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for the the non-turbo engine and we can look up the possibilities of what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show. There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair.
The other item that can cause poor idling and falter when you slow down is an EGR valve that is not closing all the way as it must do when the engine is idling or it will cause a near stall or frank stallout. So take a look at the egr valve located on the front right of the engine (the passenger side of the car, toward the fire wall) for the pipe connected between the exhaust and the intake manifold that has a valve with a mushroom-shaped cage on its top. Inside the cage you will see a vertical stem that is attached to the internal valve which moves up and down to open and close the valve. The stem has a groove in it to aid in viewing its motion. Have a helper rev the engine while at idle and watch for the stem to go and then to close when the engine returns to idle. If it seems sticky, then try some penetrating oil around the base of the stem where it enter the valve body to see if that frees-up its motion.
The last possibility is that the spark plugs may be approaching the end of their useful like, about 25k miles, so compare that with the actual mileage since you last changed them.
I believe this response will give you a means to follow-up directly with me, which is a good way to keep the entire record of our dialog.
Roland
So those are some ideas for you to consider. Let me know what happens and how I might be of help.
Roland
Roland the code i got was 37 , wiil try the penetrating oil thanks
Answer -
Hi Jim,
The 37 code is probably not relevant IF you have the turbo. This code is meant for an engine and transmission that has a lock-up for the torque converter, which the Turbo model does not have. Thus you get a false 37.
So, check the egr valve. By the way, on a turbo the EGR is on the right REAR of the engine (you will see the pipe that runs from the turbo across the length of the engine to the valve at the right rear corner amongst some other large air hoses). Does the engine idle smoothly? If so, then the egr would be less likely to be problem and I'd shift to the spark plug issue as more likely.
Roland
Roland, its not a turbo, i did all your recommandations still the same this only happens when the ac cycles or the heater is on and and the car is in gear i was thinking on changing out the automatic idle motor and the throttle block also going check the timing,i blow a head gasket a few months ago but i think if the head gasket and head was leaking it would do this all the time, thanks jim
Answer -
Hi Jim,
The three wire connector is the one located just behind the dipstick.
Roland
Roland i must have deleted the the list of questions you sent about the ac/heater control could you send them again thanks jim
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Hi Jim,
I too checked the archive and can't find the questions. But I think I was wondering whether the engine runs correctly if you aren't using the either the heater of the AC? If not, then those may not be related to the issue. If so, and you just have the blower going is there any relationship with the air distribution push buttons you are using?
Did you check the egr valve, and how about the vacuum hose that runs from the brake booster thru the firewall to the control unit for the air distrbution system?
Roland
Roland,
The engine does run correctly when not useing the heater/ac control, the hose from brake booster is fine, i replaced the egr valve, my friend thinks it is the automatic idle speed. thanks jim
AnswerHi Jim,
I would question whether it is the auto idle speed if I undertand what your symptoms are. Besides there is a code for that and you didn't get it. The 37 code is relevant in your non-turbo car. It may be messing up the lock and unlock of the torques converter which can certainly make for a on again off again sort of power transmission to the wheels. Did you try disconnecting the plug on the trans?
Roland
