Chrysler Repair: 96 Sebring Transmission Problem, chrysler sebring, chrysler dealer


Question
THANK YOU for the quick response!  The car is at a Chrysler dealer and he said the technician did not remember the code but said it was the Engine RPM Problem.  He said they are checking the wiring to determine the problem.  They have not pulled the pan yet b/c they feel it is wiring related.  When they replaced the sensor it worked for a moment on the test drive but then switched back into "limp-in" mode.  Do you have any more comments or ideas?  Again I appreciate you quick response.  It is my wife's car and she is stranded in IL while on a trip and I feel uncomfortable having to do this long distance.

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Followup To
Question -
My '96 Chrysler Sebring Coup is running fine, but won't switch out of 1st gear.  The dealer tried changing the sensor but still does not fix the problem.  I checked around on the internet and it seems there have been quite a few problems with the Sebring's transmission.  Any idea what the problem could be?
Answer -
Hi Jeremy,
Did they say which sensor and has they read out the memory of the trans controller for fault codes? There should be a code stored because it sounds like the trans has entered "limp in mode" which is will do as a self-protective action when it senses there is something wrong.
"Limp-in" mode means it won't shift out of 2nd gear. It allows the car to be driven at moderate speed to a garage for analysis. The transmission controller logs the problem as a two digit number stored in its memory. The transmission controller does not have a self-read capability as does the engine controller so you can't use the ignition switch to get the codes.
The dealer or a competent transmission shop should have a readout unit to find out what the code number is and from that they can make some conclusions about whether the trans can be repaired without being removed from the car (for example a electrical or hydraulic pressure problem) OR if some mechanical damage is involved (but follow-up a "mechanical damage" diagnosis by dropping the oil pans and looking for debris to be present or not) which if true would require a pretty expensive rebuild, I am sorry to say. No debris in the pans would suggest the possibility of an hydraulic or electric problem only.
So that is my best advice: go to a dealer/independent and ask for a diagnostic readout of the transmission controller and an estimate for repairs. Get the code number(s), and if you like, write back with a 'follow-up' question to me and we can compare what you are told with what the shop manual says is the problem of that code, and then decide if you are getting the correct advice. You don't have to give them a blank check, just ask for a diagnostic readout, the code numbers and the repair estimate. It will cost something to get that done (should be under $75), but the more information you have before going forward the better. I would not go to a franchise-type (AAMCO) transmission shop, but rather an independent with a good reputation or a Chrysler dealer. The place has to have a code reader with the adapter plug that mates with the Chrysler-type transmission readout plug. So inquire whether that is true, if you don't go to a dealer shop. If you go ahead with the repair, the cost of the diagnosis is often credited against the repair cost. But don't rush to judgement because a total rebuild costs about $1,500 so you don't want to authorize that unless it is the only possibility. Let me know what happens, because the feedback helps me too.
Roland
P.S. Of course you want to check that the fluid is at the correct level (dipstick on the trans); sometimes just changing the filter and draining the pans will solve a problem. But this one seems to be persistant enough to get a true readout of the codes.  

Answer
Hi Jeremy,
That probably is code 18 and describes a discrepency between the the engine rpm sensor (crankshaft sensor) and the speed of the engine based on the data on the data bus (which I believe comes from the sensor on the trans). It could be a problem with the crank sensor or the wiring of it, or a problem in the wire on pin 45 (located on one of the two 40-pin trans plugs). Or it could be an internal failure of the trans controller. All above based on the manual that I have for the trans.
Let us hope it is just electrical because as I explained the mechanical issues are much more expensive.
Best of luck, and let me know what the repair finally was determined to be.
Roland