Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
Four days ago the check engine light came on, car
would only go in low gear. Took to shop but the
light went out and car went into all gears as it should. Today it did the same thing. Does it need a transmission service or do you think the transmission is slowing dying? Car is a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Sedan. Thanks.
Answer -
Hi Deborah,
It sounds like your car's transmission controller has detected some malfunction and put it into 'limp-in mode' which sometimes is an off again/on again situation but it does require investigation. I would begin by checking that the trans fluid level is within the proper range by pulling the dipstick located on the front side of the transmission on the driver's side of the powertrain. If you are low on fluid get a quart from the Chrysler dealer and at it slowly to just fill it full, adding thru the dipstick tube.
If that is not the issue then here is my stock response on the limp-in situation:
It sounds like your electronically controlled transaxle has detected some problem with the unit and in order to avoid any unnecessary damage has gone into "limp-in" mode which means it won't shift out of 2nd gear. It allows the car to be driven at moderate speed to a garage for analysis. The transmission controller logs the problem as a two digit number stored in its memory. The transmission controller does not have a self-read capability as does the engine controller so you can't use the ignition switch to get the codes.
The dealer or a competent transmission shop should have a readout unit to find out what the code number is and from that they can make some conclusions about whether the trans can be repaired without being removed from the car (for example a electrical or hydrualic pressure problem) OR if some mechanical damage is involved (but follow-up a "mechanical damage" diagnosis by dropping the oil pans and looking for debris to be present or not) which if true would require a pretty expensive rebuild, I am sorry to say. No debris in the pans would suggest the possibility of an hydraulic problem only.
So that is my best advice, go to a dealer/independent and ask for a diagnostic readout of the transmission controller and an estimate for repairs. Get the code number(s), and if you like, write back with a 'follow-up' question to me and we can compare what you are told with what the shop manual says is the problem of that code, and then decide if you are getting the correct advice. You don't have to give them a blank check, just ask for a diagnostic readout, the code numbers and the repair estimate. It will cost something to get that done (should be under $100), but the more information you have before going forward the better. I would not go to a franchise-type (AAMCO) transmission shop, but rather an independent with a good reputation or a Chrysler dealer. The place has to have a code reader with the adapter plug that mates with the Chrysler-type transmission readout plug. So inquire whether that is true, if you don't go to a dealer shop. If you go ahead with the repair, the cost of the diagnosis is often credited against the repair cost. But don't rush to judgement because a total rebuild costs about $1,500 so you don't want to authorize that unless it is the only possibility.
You might also check into the manufacturer's warranty possibility because the car is so new. Maybe it can be repaired at no cost under warranty.
So in summary, you really don't know if it is slowly ddying, or if it needs only service (without removing it from the car) until you have the codes read out. Write back with the results and I'll give you my opinion about what you have been told needs to be done.
Roland
5-20-05
Thank you so much for your advice, I took to shop yesterday and they are saying the TCM (Transmission Controller Module?) is what it is saying it could be. Part brand new at Chrysler dealer is $400 but can get a used part for $100. They also say if this does not fix it it could be the transmission rails (not sure if rails is the way you spell what they called it). Thanks for your input on this. Deborah
AnswerHi Deborah,
If the problem is the controller, that may be a blessing in disguise because repairs of the trans proper will be more costly no doubt. The code #'s for such a problem should be either 11, 13, 16, 17, or 45. So you might want to verify that one of those was the one that read out before replacing the controller. (There are no suggestions for opening up the controller and repairing it are given anywhere that I know). I would go with a used one if it was the exactly correct replacement model number and also if it could be returned if it didn't solve the problem. Otherwise it may be risky to get a used one and not be able to return it. The time to actually replace the module is not very long (remove plug(s), unbolt from inner right fender, reverse procedure to install) but there may also be a bit of time dealing with the electronic memory programming to match the unit to your engine controller. So make sure that the shop you are dealing with has the tool and knowledge to complete the job successfully. Also, ask for the return of your present controller just in case it turns out that it really wasn't bad. The only reason they shouldn't give it to you is if there is a "core" charge from the vendor of the new/used unit, but that would imply that they do indeed rebuild them which is questionable. Ask for documentation that the vendor did indeed require an exchange of the old unit (the "core").
Let me know how it works out.
Roland
P.S. I don't know what "rails" are.
