Chrysler Repair: trans electrical controller, chrysler lebaron, inner fender

Question
92 chrysler lebaron. bought revers out. had the transmission rebuilt. now it jerks in 3rd gear and as it down shifts it jerks. sometimes it don't shift at all/. was told it was the trans electrical controller. the mechanic doesn't know what that is. he said did i mean the throttle sensor or the shift box. so i went to auto zone to get the part to take to him. they didn't know what it was either. can you tell me where its located or someother name it may be called? i guess they call things differnt in ark. any help is appreciated.  

Answer
Hi Rose,
You asked me about the trans a couple of days ago, correct?
And I said the shop that did the rebuild should be responsible for correcting it, isn't that so?
To give you further advice, I need to get clear which transmission you have so I can answer the new question about the controller. If the gear selector dial has positions D, 2, and 1 only, the that is a transmission that is NOT electronic at all so there is no controller. And the problem needs to be fixed either by dealing with the hydraulics of the trans or its internal mechanical parts, for which the guy who did the rebuild is responsible to figure out and correct.
If the gear selector dial has positions L, D and OD, then it IS an electronic transmission and the controller is located on the passenger side inner fender shield (in the engine compartment near the right front corner of the car). It is a box with a multi-pin (60) plug on it. But the solution is probably not going to require a new controller but rather reading out the memory of the controller, if indeed you have this transmission. If so, here is what the shop needs to do to find out what is wrong:
I believe that if you have the electronic transmission it is in a condition known as "limp-in mode" which it does when it has detected a problem which will cause further damage to the unit unless so-protected by locking out the other gear settings. I suspect that it is actually sticking in 2nd gear, i.e. starting from rest it will start in 2nd gear but not go into drive or overdrive. If that is not the case let me know because what follows is about 'sticking in 2nd gear'. It allows the car to be driven at moderate speed to a garage for analysis. The transmission controller logs the problem as a two digit number stored in its memory. A Chrysler dealer or a competent transmission shop should have a readout unit to find out what the code number is and from that they can make some conclusions about whether the trans can be repaired without being removed from the car (for example an electrical or hydrualic pressure problem) OR if some mechanical damage is involved (but follow-up a "mechanical damage" diagnosis by dropping the oil pans and looking for debris to be present or not). No debris in the pans would suggest the possibility of an hydraulic problem only.
So the guy who rebuilt it should either get a code reader or go to a dealership or good trans shop to find out what he needs to do to really fix it right.
So that is my best advice. If you don't think you can get the original mechanic to fix it, then go to a dealer/independent and ask for a diagnostic readout of the transmission controller and an estimate for repairs. Get the code number(s), and if you like, write back with a 'follow-up' question to me and we can compare what you are told with what the shop manual says is the problem of that code, and then decide if you are getting the correct advice. You don't have to give them a blank check, just ask for a diagnostic readout, the code numbers and the repair estimate. It will cost something to get that done (should be under $50), but the more information you have before going forward the better. I would not go to a franchise-type (AAMCO) transmission shop, but rather an independent with a good reputation or a Chrysler dealer. The place has to have a code reader with the adapter plug that mates with the Chrysler-type transmission readout plug. So inquire whether that is true, if you don't go to a dealer shop. If you go ahead with the repair, the cost of the diagnosis is often credited against the repair cost. But don't rush to judgement because a total rebuild costs about $1,500 so you don't want to authorize that unless it is the only possibility.
I hope you can get this fixed or get your money back on the original repair job your paid for on the trans because it obviously wasn't done right.
Roland