QuestionWhy does my 1993 TC shift thru the gears sometimes & lock up without getting to drive other times? If I can take off slowly & smoothly, without having to slow up it will usually shift properly. If I punch it or have to back off the accelerator it locks up.
I have never heard of anybody doing this & why I ever did it I don't remember, but this will get the car in drive. After the car is going about 30-35 mph, I put the car in neutral, turn off the engine, then restart it again & drop the gearshift into drive, it goes into drive smooth as can be & I go on down the road. The problem is, this is not easy to do in traffic.
Can you help?
AnswerHi Don,
Yes I have heard of this before. It is a characteristic of the electronically controlled transmission, which is a type that has the ability to detect malfunctions of the control and of the response of various valves and clutches in the transmission. It sounds like your electronically controlled transaxle has detected some problem with the unit and in order to avoid any unnecessary damage has gone into "limp-in" mode which means it won't shift out of 2nd gear. It allows the car to be driven at moderate speed to a garage for analysis. The controller logs the problem as a two digit number stored in its memory. What you do when you go thru the key off-on mode is temporarily get it out of limp- in mode, and once the criteria for limp-in to be re-set have been satisfied, it will then revert to limp-in.
The dealer or a competent transmission shop should have a diagnostic readout unit to find out what the code number is and from that they can make some conclusions about whether the trans can be repaired without being removed from the car (for example a hydrualic pressure problem) OR if some mechanical damage is involved (but to be sure I would follow that up by dropping the oil pans and looking for debris to be present or not) which if true would require a pretty expensive rebuild, I am sorry to say.
So that is my best advice, go to a dealer/independent and ask for a diagnostic readout and estimate for repairs. Get the code number(s), and if you like, write back with a 'follow-up' question to me and we can compare what you are told with what the shop manual says is the problem, and then decide if you are getting the correct advice. You don't have to give them a blank check, just ask for a diagnostic readout, the code numbers and the repair estimate. It will cost something to get that done (should be under $75), but the more information you have before going forward the better. I would not go to a franchise-type (AAMCO) transmission shop, but rather an independent with a good reputation or a Chrysler dealer. The place has to have a code reader with the adapter plug that mates with the Chrysler-type transmission readout plug. So inquire whether that is true if you don't go to a dealer shop. Some shops may apply the diagnositic cost to the repair bill when/if you decide to have them do the work.
Roland
P.S. In order to "clear" both of your questions, I need to give you a 'boiler plate' response to one of them which may be a bit impolite. Sorry for the offense but it is not intended.
