Questionthank you for the advice i did the diagnostic check and got an 11, 12,and 44. Hopefully this will help you get me on the right track. Also, do you knoww where i may be able to order an a/c heater control that is all electic, no levers, because the one in my 1987 chrsyer new yorker is busted.-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
i have a 1987 chrysler new yorker, i had to replace the fuel pump, but it still won't crank. i can not find the fuel pump relay on the car. If you could tell me the location it would be most helpful. It is the 2.5 liter four cylinder non turbo.
Answer -
Hi Moody,
There is no fuel pump relay in the 87 Chrysler car lines. Rather the pump is powered by the Autoshutdown relay mounted on the left inner fender shield; that same relay also powers the spark coil. I suspect that the ASD relay is being disabled because the distributor timing signal is not reaching the engine controller, which causes the ASD to be deenergized as a safety function (like if there is an accident that stops the engine, then this will cause the fuel and spark to cut off so as to prevent a fire). You should notice that when you turn the ignition switch to run that the fuel pump should operate for about 1-2 seconds, then shut off if the engine is not cranked, or if it is cranked and doesn't start. I would suggest that you readout the engine controller to see if it has sensed that the distributor pick up is not working. The controller records such faults as two-digit code numbers. The distributor signal is code 11 if that is why you can't get it to start.
The most useful thing to do then would be to try to get the fault codes that are likely stored in the engine controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). Then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the same engine in my 89 LeBaron and I have the shop manual for that year which should be pretty much the same as yours.
If you get an 11, then you will want to verify that the low voltage 3-wire connector at the distributor is clean inside so that the electrical connections are good to the Hall effect sensor inside. Also look at the wires themselves to make sure thay haven't been heat damaged. If that checks out then replace the Hall effect sensor in the distributor. It costs about $40. It is a easy substitution.
Let me know if you don't get a code or have any questions. You can also verify that the ASD is being shut down by putting a voltmeter or glow light on the + post of the spark coil. Then crank the engine for 5 seconds and observe whether the 12V appears for 5 seconds, 1-2 seconds, or not at all. If my theory is correct, it should only last for 1-2 seconds of a 5 second crank.
Roland
AnswerHi Moody,
Well the code 11 verifies my analysis given in the first response. But before you go buy a new hall effect sensor to replace the one in the distributor why not look at the wiring plug connector at the distributor to make sure it is snug and also check the wires themselves to see if any of them are damaged, insulation melted, broken, etc? If you are satisfied with the plug connector and the condition of the wires that go into the side of the distributor body, then my advice is to buy the hall effect sensor, remove the distributor cap, and the rotor, then lift out the round hakk effect sensor plate and disconnect it at the plug. Then assemble in the reverse order. You can do this replacement in a few minutes and WITHOUT removing the distributor from the engine, just remove the distributor splash shield, the distributor cap and the rotor.
After the new sensor is mounted and everything is put back together see if the engine will then start.
If the engine still won't start after you replace the Hall effect sensor, then it would be good if you have a voltmeter or a neon glow light to check for the voltage at the (+) post of the spark coil as I described in the last paragraph of my first response.
So there you have a set of things to do that are well within your capability and hopefully your wallet as well.
So let me know how it goes.
Roland
P.S.The 12 code means that sometime in the recent past the battery was disconnected. And the cide 44 is to me a little bit undertain because the '89 and '90 manuals I have show there to be different meanings for that one. In any case, I am expecting to get the '87 shop manuals in just a few days and I will then see what the 44 meant in your car's model year. I don't believe code 44 will prevent the car from starting, but one possible meaning is that the voltage that supplies the actuating coil of the autoshutdown relay is not present, and that, if true, would also prevent the car from starting. If that were the case might have to check a few wire connections to find out why. Do you have a volt-ohmmeter?
