Chrysler Repair: 1992 New Yorker Electrical, negative battery cable, amp fuse

Question
My problem is similar to Kyle's dated 01/23/05.  I have a 1992 Park Fifth Ave.  Mysterious battery drain is pulling 10.2 VDC with everything off (even alarm system disabled).  I measure this by d/cing the negative battery cable at the battery  and placing a voltage meter between the negative post of the battery and thecable end.  I have even checked hood, glove box and trunk lights. I pulled one fuse at a time under hood and then in glove box and finally relays under the hood: voltage drain never changes.  Battery is strong and brand new.  Alternator only puts out 13.8VDC tops, even with several accessories on.  This doesn't explain the 10.2VDC drain but I can't help but wonder if there might be an internal drain(short?) in the alternator?  I d/c's the main (10ga.) wire off the alternator and the 10.2VDC drain remained.  Should I try d/cing the other connections on the alternator.  What, besides the alternator and the starter are not fused?  I have d.c's every wiring connector I can access one at a time and still no drop in voltage drain.  This one is driving me crazy!  Can you please help?  Thanks.   Larry

Answer
Hi Larry,
You have certainly done a good job on tracking down this drain problem.
As I look over the wiring diagrams for the '92 I find that the + pole of the battery supplies three wires: one is a 6 gauge red to the starter motor which could be the source of the drain (the motor's solenoid switch); so try disconnecting that one at the starter motor (but disconnect the + clamp at the battery before you remove the wire, then be very certain to insulate the wire's tip so you don't shortout the wire when you reconnect the + clamp to the battery). See what effect that has on your voltage reading.
The next wire is a light weight black wire that powers the 20 amp fuse F2 in the distribution center for the emergency flasher system. You pulled that fuse, to no avail, so that is probably o.k. unless there is a problem in the black wire between the battery and the fuse socket. It does travel through a 4-pin black disconnect so check that to see that there is not an internal short in that disconnect.
Finally, there is the big black wire to the power distribution center's buss bar that powers all the other fused circuits for the car as well as connects the alternator to the battery by the big black/gray wire that you properly disconnected at the alternator, to no avail.
So when you do all those disconnects, there should be no drawdown on the battery.
You could also try reading the resistance between disconnected + and - clamps of the battery in this configuration (again with all the fuses and relays pulled from the center, and the starter and alternator disconnected): you should get infinite ohms. If not, then start jiggling the three wires on the + post clamp to see if one of them is shorted somewhere along its path. If nothing appears, then I guess we are left to examine the power distribution center to see if the buss has somehow become shorted to ground.
I suspect you will find the short if you do all the above.
Let me know what you determine.
Roland
P.S.If we need to exchange more info you might mention which engine your car has because the charging/distribution systems are a little bit different depending upon which one you have.