Chrysler Repair: 1992 chrysler lebaron convertible K vin 2.5l, chrysler lebaron convertible, 1992 chrysler lebaron convertible

Question
Hi,

I have couple of problems with my chrysler lebaron convertible, 1992, 2.5 vin K.  But right now the pressing one are two:  1.  the brake warning light started staying on, when I pull the parking brakes up when parked, the warning light goes off but then the rear interior light comes on and drains my battery.

2. the car burns oil - we thought the valve cover was the cause we replaced it and it stil happens.  Any suggestions?

Answer
Hi Fran,
On question 1:
Are you saying that when you used the parking brake the light would come on (as it should if you also have the ignition in the "on" position) and that you could get it to go off if you released the parking brake AND also if you pulled the pedal for the brake a little further up so as to get a full release of the pedal? If that is so, then that is fairly normal, it suggests that the spring that returns the pedal to the full release position is a little weak, or there is so corrosion or dirt in the parking brake cable and its housing that is preventing the cable from releasing fully, or that the parking brake is in need of adjustment ( it should fully lock up the rear wheels after about 6 clicks of the ratchet). So that is not a bid deal. But the rear interior light coming on is strange. Does it only go on when you pull the pedal up like that, and which interior light is it, and is it the only one of the several courtesy lights that comes on that way? I was tempted to think this might be related to the body computer, but the wires that are involved with the interior lights and the brake warning light are rather isolated from oneanother. I would first take a look under the dash at the parking break lever mechanism to see if there is any interference between it and another nearby wire that is in the vicinty that could have a rubber thru insulation point that is being grounded when the lever rubs against it at the full up position of that lever. The switch that detects that the lever has been pushed down is the only electrical item that should be involved by that brake lever, so if you see anything besides that switch I would check that wire and move it out of the way. Let me know if you have the conventional instrument cluster or the electronic instrument cluster as that might give me a clue about this one. One thing you could do in the meantime is remove the bulbs that come on and drain your battery until we can figure this one out.

2. Who did the valve cover gasket replacement? Did they have a shop manual that showed them where to apply the RTV sealant and did they use new rubber gasket seals on the ends of the valve cover? If it was done by a non-knowledgeable mechanic it could still be leaking. I have a 3 page instruction on the replacement of the gaskets for the valve cover which I can xerox and mail to you if you want to try it yourself or have a different mechanic do it. Do you see oil still leaking around the valve cover?
About oil buring: When you decelerate with your foot off the gas pedal, and then accelerate do you see blue smoke come out the tailpipe (that is the best way to tell if you are burning oil; maybe have a friend drive behind you and see if they observe such blue smoke when you accelerate following a long deceleration with you foot off the gas). How many miles do you drive before having to add a quart of oil? Answers to these questions would help me sort out whether the valve cover is still leaking or whether you are truly burning oil. How many mile on the engine? The 2.5L non-turbo is a very good engine and it usually doesn't have a problem with oil burning prematurely. I have an '89 LeBaron coupe with the same engine and while it uses a quart in say 1,000 miles that is normal (engine has gone about 90,000 mile).
Roland