Questionply. reliant, 88, 2.5, efi
ply, reliant; 88, 2.5 efi
Sorry to bother you again. You gave me some advice around ten days ago. I had a racing idle and a code 'short in asi circuit'. thanks for the advice. Eventually I did figure how to check voltage on asi circuit and went all the way to the computer module. Everything seemed normal. Took the egr valve off and lubed it and could hear the diaphram working. Eventually went to a mechanic and had him use a scanner. He got the same reading I got about a short in the asi circuit. He couldn't find the problem. He thought there might be a short in a wiring harness and suggested a junk yard. So I went to the junk yard and got a rebuilt smec that was on the shelf. Could not find the wire harness to match my car. Put the smec in and that apx 2500 idle is gone. I am not getting any fault codes but now the car stalls out after a few seconds. I installed a new intake manifold/tb gasket. That didn't do any good. Replaced rotor, no help. Tried loosening the distributor and moving it to advance or retard spark, no help. Idle screw no help. Looked down in throttle body while running until it stalled. Looks like it is getting plenty of gas --maybe too much, I see little air bubles instead of a fine cone spray it says I should see. According to my Hanes trouble shooting section, the lack of power--no passing gear--and stalling out right after starting are from the same causes. Either in the tb or the electrical system. My Hanes is lame on rebuilding a fuel injector. I braved it cause the car isn't running anyway--I took off the regulator and cleaned it up and checked the gaskets. Took the rubber cap off the injector. No help. I am thinking about going to the junk yard and getting a tb for it and also whatever other parts I can like a complete distributor, coil, spark plug wires. Go back to changing parts because I don't know what else to try. I don't see or hear vacuum leak. I can't find a bad or loose wire. The distributor cap, spark plug wires, and coil look ok. The spark itself looks good. I had the timing belt replaced 1 year ago. I'll try any suggestion. BTW when I checked the ohms from the asi to the smec I got 52.7 across 17,18 and very close to that across 19,20 (not the pins of the smec of course since it was unplugged, but to the females of the plug). Is that good? Thanks for the advice thus far.
AnswerHi Jim,
It appears you are making progress, or at least learning alot about your engine. I assume that there are no additional codes other than the AIS motor (code 25)? I can't recall it I discussed spark with you, but if not position the tip of the center wire of the distributor cap, after you remove it from the cap, about 1/4" from the head and have someone else crank the engine for 5 seconds while observing the spark. Then replace it, pull a spark plug insulated connector, insert plastic handled phillips head screwdriver into connector to make contact with spark plug wire inside, hold plastic handle, position screwdrive shaft 1/4" from head and again have someone crank for 5 seconds. If spark is strong for full 5 seconds of cranking, then distributor, rotor and cap are o.k.
The most interesting thing you described is the excess bubbles from the fuel injector. That may well be an indication that the injector is beginning to get drippy which will flood out the engine, which may explain your current no start problem. See if when you stop cranking (and before it catches and tries to run) whether there is dripping of some gas. If so, then I would suggest getting that tb from the wrecking yard and replacing the injector. Make sure the one you get is from the same size engine as yours. When you replace the injector, put some engine oil on the rubber o-rings, and when you install it align the + pole so that it is opposite the attachment screw hole, then put the cap on and press down, then rotate the cap the few degrees necessary to align the screw hole in the cap with the screw hole in the body(this assures a good seating of the injector O-rings so there is no leakage from those). Then install the screw to a tightness of 35-45 inch pounds (or guess at that if you don't have a torque wrench that reads that low) so that there is no leakage due to the cap not being down tight (but don't go so tight as to strip the threads on the tb). New tb injectors are about $150 so you will be lucky to find a good one at the wrecking yard.
On the AIS motor resistance readings, I measured it from the 6-pin disconnect nearby and got close to 1 ohms. But at least you go the two readings to agree. So I don't know what to make of a 50 ohm reading at the SMEC plug. We may not have the same AIS motor as mine is from an '89 2.5L.
