Classic/Antique Car Repair: 1947 nash ignition, armored cable, myriad reasons


Question
QUESTION: Do I need the armored cable even thou I changed ignition switch (key part) and coil.
Because I got a new 6 volt coil (2 posts) do I put a second wire to it and coming from where?
Old one had an armored cable that went straight into the ignition switch and coil and a 1 post coil that went to distributor.

Have tinkered with this car for 2 years and it still will not turn over, have been on other sites but got somewhat rude responses not sure if it's cause I'm a girl or someone that doesn't really know what I am doing just hate to see once beautiful car rot.

thanks for your help in advance
Sarah

ANSWER: Hello Sarah,

It's disturbing that there are still Neanderthals out there with regard to women and cars. I welcome you to the hobby and think that everyone else on this site is of the same opinion.

To your question:

You only need replace the armored cable on your Nash if you want to maintain originality--it was originally there as an early anti-theft device. What appears to be a one post wire coil actually is 2 wire like your new one--the difference was the primary wire from the ignition switch ran through the cable to a terminal at the bottom center of the old coil. To duplicate the connection, you would need to take this same wire and attach it to one of the terminals on the new coil, paying attention to whether the car is positive or negative ground, (the coil will work either way but works best when properly grounded). The second wire goes from the coil to the distributor, eventually connecting to the points.

As you might expect, there are a myriad reasons why an old car won't start. If you can provide me with the parts you've replaced and the systems you've rebuilt, I might be able to make some suggestions as to where to check next!

Good luck, Sarah, you've got a classic worth saving!

Bob

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: well, plugs and wires cap and rotor and condenser (inside cap with points) tinkered with the points for days to get a spark. coil and ignition switch. I ran about 95% new wire. It's a pos. ground 6 volt straight 6. got a new battery. I get spark to dist. cap and at the points but not back to coil. I'd like to keep it as origanol as posible, but considering switching to 12 volt simply because most people have a little more expierence with it. when I got it there was an electric fuel pump but I disconected it and right now just using starting fluid to see if it turns over. I'm not concerned about it looking super great (dont mind the rat rod look) there is a car show in October I'd love to drive it to.
I appreciate the help so far
Thanks
Sarah

Answer
Hello Sarah,

I answered part of your question in the other email, here's the rest.

Hold off converting to 12 volts for right now. Theory of operation on a car is the same whether 6 or 12 volts. But if you switch to 12 volts, you'll have to change you dash guages to 12 V as well as other mechanical components. The only advantage 12 V gives is a faster crank speed and greater variety of aftermarket parts upgrades. In the meantime, if yoiu need a faster crank, get a 8 volt tractor battery. This choice will enable faster crank speed without the need to convert the rest of the electrical system.

Thanks,

Bob