Classic/Antique Car Repair: misfire, possibly valve issue, combustion gases, good luck jack

Question
QUESTION: I recently got my 1931 model a running after a couple of years in storage.  The car was running smooth for a couple of 5 to 10 mile trips around town just to drive it.  I decided to drive across town some 20 miles one way and back.  About a mile before I got home I lost some power and the car started running rough.  My friend and I checked the new plugs and found #4 was wet.  We cleaned the plugs and have replaced coil, cap, and fuel filter.  I then replaced the carb with an original Zenith.  The problem still exists. #4 isn't wet but doesn't look clean. It runs 1st and 2nd but 3rd is when the power loss is noticebly bad.  After the initial problem the oil level was about a quart and a half low.  If there is something internal wrong how can I check it,(pull cylinder head), what would I look for?  Does it sound catastrophic?

ANSWER: First thing to do is clean the plugs again and put in a new set of points.  Make sure of your timing and try it.  I doubt if anything serious is wrong with it.
Let me know.
Good luck
jack

Torque your head bolts to make sure combustion gases are not leaking past the gasket.  Bring them all up to 55 ft. # , but be careful of the front two,  /sneak them up to 45 ft. # so you don't crack the gooseneck, and stop there.
jack

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks Jack, but unfortunately my head gasket, I hope thats all, needs to be replaced.  I did everything you suggested with no luck. I then, with my hand, checked compression and 3 and 4 are definately weak.  I knocked the porcelin out of a spare spark plug and braised an air chuck to it.  I hooked up air to cylinder 4 and felt air come out of 3 with 4 at TDC.   My question now is I have taken everything down to pull the head.  All the fastners are off but the head is stuck on the block very well.  I have spoke with some guys with experience and they have mentioned using small screwdrivers ever so gently with a rubber mallet to break the seal.  Another friend said what if you back the head nuts off a quarter turn and fire the engine, will the compression of the firing engine break the head seal?  I don't want to warp the head nor screw it up by popping the head off with the a running.  What are your suggestions?  The only thing I've tried is a dead blow hammer with no avail.  I have a mechanic friend coming over Sunday and he wants to try knocking it loose with a hammer and two by four.  I would like to know your opinion before we tear something up.  Thanks for your time.

Answer
First of all, it is going to take a little time and a lot of work to get it off.  Like a friend of mine says, you have to worry it off.  Firing the engine with loose nuts worked for me one time, but not another.  If that does not work, drive many putty knives under the head and try to break it away.  A few screw drivers too, but be careful with those.  You may even break some putty knives off in there.  Another trick it to get some soft rope and feed it down the cylinder with the piston down.  Then try to drive the piston up against the head to break it loose.  Do this to the two center cylinders.  DO NOT PINCH OR SMASH YOUR FINGERS.  Get some thin pieces of wood (oak) to slip under the head as you get it raised a little.  You will have to work it off a little at a time.  It will come off.  Stick with it and worry it off..
Be sure to spend the $ to mill the head flat when you get it off.
Good luck.
jack