Classic/Antique Car Repair: Starting, oldsmobile cutlass, coil wire

Question
QUESTION: Ok I have a 1974 Oldsmobile Cutlass(1975 olds engine V8 260,) I have problems starting my engine. I thought that it was the starter so I took it to the local Kragen and replaced it. Come to find out that the starter that I had before was good. Ok so I hooked he old starter back up. Still nothing, a couple of sec. later I smelled burning. It was coming from a wire that connected from the fire wall to the (+) side of the ignition coil. SO I cut it to test it and see if it had (+/-) readings. I found out that the wire I cut was the ignition wire coming from the key(when I turn the key on, it would light up as positive). SO with all this said I took the starter back down, disconnected the wires and hooked them up while under the hood(so that I could see better and understand better). SO I began to test the wire going to the stater I could figure out that the thick red wire was coming from the battery.....but still a little confused.....I hooked everything back up and the black wire did not smoke anymore but the exteranl ignition coil got red hot...NO follow me on this....I followed the exteranl ignition coil wire...one was the ground on the negative side it went to the distributor, next were two positive wires, one going to the starter, and the other going to the firewall, the same wire that got hot earlier(The ignition wire,the wire when I turn the key on it sends 12v)...now I'm confused because both wire are positive, well then why did it got hot and burn the first time, then when I hooked everything back up why did the coil get hot(red hot)...I don't know what to do I know that this is a lot but I was trying to be clear on what I am going through right now..Could you help?

ANSWER: Well lets give this a try. There are two wires on the + side of the coil. The one that runs to the ignition switch is supposed to be a resistor wire that will limit the current to the coil and points when the engine is running to keep them from burning. Now if this wire has been replaced with a straight non resistor wire then too much current will flow especially if the engine is not running and the points happen to be closed. The coil will get red hot and the wire could smoke. The factory wire was a nicad wire with a resistance of about 1.5 ohms. If the wire has been replaced a resistor from an earlier GM car can be inserted into the wire and will work. the second wire comes from the S terminal of the starter solenoid and by passes the resistor for engine starting. I hope this helps. If you still have problems please let me know.
Brad

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks Brad you solved a 14 day problem...I put a ballast resistor on the wire coming from the ignition wire leading to the coil, it helped out a lot. I noticed that if I leave the key in the on position without trying to start it will get hot but it alot better now thanks Brad.....Now I put everything back together...it has a new cam,lifters,double roller timing chain,intake manifold,carb,batt,distrb.top&rotor,distrub. coil, roller rockers, springs/retainers/keepers....all new.. I had my heads totally reconditioned...now I have a problem getting the car to start. I put the car a TDC for #1 cylin. , then put the distrub. top on with an indicator pointing where I need to put on my #1 spark plug, plug all of the rest of them in according to the firing order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2...ok...so I try to fire it up, the crank and pulleys turned but it didn't fire up...so I gave it a while then I came back apprx. 30 mins later, I tried again, this time I turn the distrub. clockwise and counterclockwise to adjust the timing...results nothing...I tried again apprxly 30 min later I saw fuel shoot up out of the carb this time..so I left it alone...came back about 3-4 hours later tried again...this time I heard a pop louder than three 747 jets flying at the same time(almost tool away all of my hearig)....then smoke came out of the tail pipes....the car is in the garage I saw two black spot on the garage door, lining up with the exhaust pipes(look like carbon build-up)...I just don't know...I checked my timing as far as TDC, and the spark plugs wires being in the right spot...Can you help me on this one? Trying to get it to crank...also with that pop do you think that I damaged anything?

Answer
Remember that with a four stroke cycle engine that the piston comes up to top dead center twice to complete one firing cycle. Yep, the crank turns two revolutions for one firing stroke. I'll bet that you have it timed properly but that the distributor is 180 degrees off and number one is firing between the exhaust and intake stroke instead of the firing stroke. Either remove the distributor and turn the rotor 180 degrees or move the plug wires around the cap 180. As for the resistor getting hot when the key is on and the points are closed, it is supposed to, but not smokin hot.
Brad