QuestionI think I solved the backfire by adjusting a couple of valve springs on the passenger side head. One or two seemed a little tight, but for future references it was like a firecracker every revolution in idle and only on the passenger side. Also I did a pressure test through the radiator with about 13 pounds for 30 minutes or more and the pressure held, no drop. Hoping this is another good indicator for good head gaskets and heads. If you have noticed I am desperately avoiding the idea of pulling the heads. Not that I want if that is what needs to be done, just avoiding. After I got back fire to stop I took it for a stroll in the parking lot and still don't think the power is what it should be and it did die on me before I could get it parked. Now let me describe stroll in parking lot. Forward 40 ft and reverse 40ft three or for times. Just enough to check for back firing, which there was none. As far as the sound of the motor, sounds good and steady when idleing. I haven't really set any certain timing degree yet after replacing timing chain. What degree do you recommend and could this be a cause for the lose of power? Keep in mind it can't be to far off time because it will crank fairly easy. As far as the balking of the starter, I believe now it could be the battery after all. I will no later today.
AnswerOK, progress continues. I don't understand what you mean by adjusting valve springs - you mean the valve lifters? How did you adjust them?
The starter will balk if the timing is too far advanced, but not if it is off the other way (too retarded). Also being too retarded will make the engine power very poor. So adjust the points first for a dwell of 30 degress +/- 2 degrees, then set the timing to about 6 degrees BTDC. That should be close enough to give you normal engine sounds and decent power - we can fine tune it for optimum later, when all the other questions are answered.
Did you do the check for vacuum leak I described last message? What was the result?
The pressure test sounds encouraging, but again, the pressure of 13 PSI is peanuts compared to the pressure inside the combustion chamber when the engine is running. If you continue to see white smoke and moisture coming out the back after the engine is thoroughly warmed up (some is natural when the engine is first started from ice cold), I'll tell you about testing for combustion gasses in the coolant - that is the definitive test for a bad head gasket.
If the battery cranks the engine well enough to start the engine there is no reason to buy a new one - low or weak battery won't cause any problems with the engine running - as once the engine is started it is using the voltage from the alternator - you can disconnect the battery and the car will continue to run! Don't spend money if you don't have to!
I asked you what the "backfire" sounded like - now that it's gone, I still would like to know. Since adjusting the valve lifters helped, I assume it was a "chuff-Chuff" sound, which if it is coming out the tail pipe indicates the exhaust valve is set too tight on one cylinder. Which way did you adjust the valves if that is what you did?
The contiued saga contiues - - - -
Dick
