QuestionStupid question, but would I have removed this "L" bracket when dismantaling the window? Or is it attatched to something else on the inside of the door. If anything I've learned not to take things apart and leave them for a year. Thanks, Pam
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Followup To
Question -
Hi there I am kinda new to restoring the 1969 MG Midget I purchased about a year ago and was a tad bit gung-ho in removing a few bolts. So my questions are----
1. I removed the quarter window assemblies of both doors and now(almost a year later) have finally gotten back to reassembly and I have 2 bolts on each door that are supposed to be the front glass bottom securing bolts. What I can't quite figure out is what exactly are they suppose to securing to? When I go to put the bolt in, theres nothing on the opposite side to hold the bolt! Am I missing something or have I just overlooked something?
2. When I hit about 50 mph the car starts to chug and won't accelerate any more. Ideas?
3. My oil pressure is low and I can't seem to raise it any. It was perfectly fine, and then steadily began to drop where it stands now at 10. Thoughts?
4. And finally, after the car has run for awhile it will on occassion shake and sputter when turned off. Please help!
These are all things that I have been working on and trying to read all I can to figure it out on my own to no avail. Please help if you can, any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
PWatson"
Answer -
Hi Pam,
1. The quarter glass has the front guide for the door window and if you are talking about the two holes at the bottom of the door which hold the lower end of the guide. There is a small "L" bracket with the nuts attached which also has bolt or threaded stud attached which holds the bottom of the window guide.
2.&3. What you discrib narrows it down to a hundred possibles, however, if it just levels off as though that is it's top speed, I would look for a partially stopped up muffler. This can be tested with a vacuum gauge run out from under the hood and put under a wiper blad so you can monitor the vacuum when it flattens out. Even at full throttle you should have at least 5 inches of vacuum. If it goes to "0" at half throttle, you have a partially stopped exhaust or major valve problems. But with your oil pressure at a limit of 10 PSI you could have major engine problems. Oil pumps have the capasity to pump over 350 PSI. rod bearings, main bearings and cam bearings have very little clearance so the oil can't get through thus the oil pressure builds. It could build to over 350 PSI which would explode the oil filter so a regulator valve is installed (in the side of the block in a Midget/Sprite)to relieve this pressure down to 50 to 80 PSI running. It should still run 25 to 45 at idle though. Standard procedure in a shop would be to attach a known good gauge directly to the oil fitting on the block to confirm the low pressure than remove the pressure regulator spring and piston for examination. If thay are OK and you have the correct oil in the engine, there is a good chance you have bad bearings which if 10 PSI is your "Highest" pressure means the pan needs to be removed and the rod bearings removed and examined and if they look good you need to "Plasti-gauge" them to check clearance. 1 1/2 thousanths is ideal and 2 1/2 as a limit. with no copper showing on the bearings.
4. "Running On" after you turn the engine off is a sign of "Detonation/Preingnition" called "Abnormal combustion" It can be caused by several things. The most common is regular or stale gas. These cars in the US require high test gas. Other causes are overly fast idle, overheated engine, ignition advanced too far, float level set to high, wrong spark plugs (high heat range), excessive carbon in the combustion chambers, to name a few.
All of these things are serious problems and must be looked at or major damage can result very shortly.
I hope this helps, let me know what you find.
Howard
AnswerHi Pam,
There is no such thing as a stupid question. There can only be stupid answers. I will try to stay out of that catagory.
It is difficult to get the 1/4 window out without removing "L" bracket from the bottom of the forward window track. But if the door was being stripped for restoration the two bolts securing the "L" bracket would normally be also removed and the "L" bracket thus removed.
If you have lost that part, they can easily be fabricated from a piece of 1/8 by 1 in. strap metal from any hardware store. Look at the bottom of the window track to see if you have a tab with either a hole in it or a welded in stud. With no sample to look at it would be best to go on and assemble the door, glass and all. Then you can force the lower part of the front track back against the glass to get a distance of the lower track hole or stud to the inner wall of the mounting point (two holes) in the door. This gives you the point to make a 90 deg. bend in your bracket. First drill a hole in the end of the strap metal so you can do all measurements from that hole. Leave several inches on the next leg of the bracket so you can then bolt the bracket to the lower track and hold the bracket against the door and with a marking pen through the two holes mark where the two holes are to be drilled. Remove the bracket an drill the two holes and cut off the excess bracket beyound the two holes. If you have welding equipment you can weld two nuts onto the bracket or reach in the door and put nuts and lock washers on. Be sure to paint your finished bracket.
Another option is to contact your local British car club and ask for anyone with midget/sprite parts cars if someone would sell you those two brackets. I doubt you can find those parts in the aftermarket as they are not a wareable part thus no one makes them.
Good luck.
Howard
