QuestionExpert: Dick Benjamin
Date: 7/14/2004
Subject: 1950 Packard brakes
When answering the question below you said you used a snapon tool to remove the drums. Would you know what part number it is/was ? I am looking for one.
Thanks
Kevin
Expert: Dick Benjamin
Date: 7/14/2004
Subject: 1950 Packard brakes
Question
I need to replace the brakes on my 1950 Packard Custom 8 and I cannot remove the left rear drum. I have even tried a drum puller and beating on drum with hammer!! It will not budge. The right rear came off with no problems. What do you suggest I try?
AnswerThe Snap-On tool is # CJ129
You can contact Snap-On at 1 877 762 7662
DON'T beat on the drum with a hammer - those drums are not around anymore - if you ruin one, you'll be in big trouble!
Just in case you didn't see my previous answer to a similar question, here is a copy of it:
Subject: 1937 Packard 120 rear drum removal
Question: I am trying to remove the rear drums on my 1937 120. The entire braking system is currently not functioning, so I am not able to drive the car at all. I purchased a slide-hammer type puller and got the driver's side rear drum to come off. However, the passenger side will not budge. I have heard this is a common Packard problem, do you have any other suggestions? Thank you!
Dennis
Answer: Well, strictly speaking, this is not a "problem", it is the way the car was designed to work.
To remove the drums from the rear of any Packard built prior to 1956, you have to use a hub puller that is designed for the task. Chrysler Corp cars also used this design until 1964, as did many other brands of cars.
Most rental yards will have one to rent. You can also buy one, but the cheap ones sold by J.C.Whitney and the like are not strong enough to use on a Packard. If you decide to buy one, I recommend the Snap-On brand as the only one I know that is reliable for use on Packards or other heavy cars. If you know of a mechanic that has done brake work on cars from the 60s and earlier, he will have such a tool, or know where to get one.
The hub has a tapered cone which mates with the tapered end of the axle, and when installed correctly, it won't come off without the use of the right tool. Your one drum that came off with slide hammer must have been installed wrong, either because of inadequate torque on the holding nut, or because someone mistakenly lubricated the mating parts. When you put the car back together, leave the parts dry - this is very important, because if you apply any kind of "anti-sieze" or other lubricant, the drum will move on the axle and result in wear in the keyway, and possibly a broken axle. Inspect the keyway on both the axle end, and the drum cone for wear, and replace the woodruff key when you put that side back together. Torque the nut to the recommended torque as given in the factory shop manual. I don't have the manual for your car, but I do for later Packards; the spec is 250 ft lbs.
The proper hub puller will have 3 legs, and a center screw that is designed to press on the end of the axle. The legs are bolted to three of the wheel mounting holes with the car's lug bolts. Leave the nut in the center of the drum on, but loose, to protect the threads of the axle. Lubricate the thread of the center bolt on the puller, and then tighten it against the end of the axle, being sure to center it perfectly on the axle. Tight the bolt by striking the "dogbone" type handle with a 3# sledge hammer, until the drum pops off with a bang. This may take overnight with the pressure on the bolt, or may even require a bit of heat from a propane torch on the outer surface of the hub center cone, with pressure applied. Keep at it, it will come off, sooner or later. There is no other way.
Dick
