QuestionWhen I traced the radio problem, it has an inline fuse/noise compressor with 2 fuses inside of it. A 20 amp fuse and a 1 amp fuse. When I take a jumper wire and jump from fuse to fuse the radio comes on. So I figured that If I elimanate the inline fuse block it should work. Going into the fuse block is a Orange wire, a Black, and a Red. I put an inline fuse on the "HOt" wire, the red and spiced the grounds together, and the oranges together, still nothing. I took my fuse off and spiced the reds together....still nothing. So I am speechless. If the fuse/noise compressor was fried wouldnt spicing all the wires together correctly make it work? The turn signals still do not work I have 12 volts on the wires and I took my "flasher" out and tried it on my wifes car. It works fine. Any help would be greatly apprectiated. P.s. I ordered the "new radio" from DANCHUK they striclty have parts and items for 1955-1957 Chevy Belairs. Thanks Again
Justin Bauer
yukmizzee@yahoo.com
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Followup To
Question -
I recently purchased a 1956 Chervrolet BelAir and the turn signals just quit working. I have traced all the wires and fuses and there has been no problems there and my brain is exhausted of possibilities. Do you have any suggestions?
Also, the radio in the vehicle is brand new, but that also stopped working without any signs of damage.
I appreciate your time.
Answer -
I am amazed that you were able to find a brand new radio for a 50 year old car - how did you do THAT?!..
Anyway, if both things quit at the same time, I suspect there is a problem in the accessory power feed - basically everything that goes on and off with the key. Try your wipers (if electric) or your heater (if you have one) to see if the motors come on. If they don't, check the wire from the ignition switch accessory terminal - I'm betting is has either fallen off or isn't making good contact on one end or the other.
On the other hand, if the wipers or heater work OK, the problem is NOT in the accessory feed (if the car is still wired the way it left the factory).
If the turn signals died at a different time than the radio, and the other items mentioned still work, then I suspect flasher has quit - try testing the socket that the flasher plugs into - do you have 12 volts on one wire? If you turn on the turn signal, do you see 12 volts on both wires? If you do, and it isn't showing any lights at either end of the car, there is a disconnected wire from the flasher to the steering column, or a bad connection at the turn signal switch up inside the column.
If there is 12 volts on one wire and not on the other wire, the flasher has quit. Try jumping between the two wires to see if now the turn signal lights light up when you push the lever. Of course they won't blink but, but you'll know you've found the problem (Bad flasher)
If you trace it to the steering column, you are in for a hassle, as it takes special tools to get in there. Post a follow up question to me if you get to that point, and we'll start you down that road.
I hope you can find and fix it with this much info, but if not, post a follow up and I'll continue.
Dick
AnswerLet's discuss the radio first: I think I understand the two power wires to the radio, one is probably for the dial light and comes from the headlight switch terminal that powers all the dash lights, so the radio light will change brighness as you adjust the other dash lights. This one is probably dead unless the lights are on.
The main power lead, the one that has the 20 amp fuse, should be the one that has the noise suppresor in the line. That could be burned out, as you suspect, but if you bypass that and put 12 volts directly on the main power lead into the radio, it should play. If it doesn't, something is wrong with the radio (assuming it is grounded and the antenna is connected). Don't put 12 volts on that lead unless there is a fuse in the line, though, because you could damage the radio further if there is a problem in it. You may have to return the radio to get it tested.
As for the flasher problem, if you see 12 volts on both terminals of the flasher, that pretty well proves that there is no connection from the flasher to the turn signal bulbs. The reason I say this is that if the flasher were connected to the bulbs, the voltage on that wire would be pulsing on and off, and you'd hear the flasher clicking.
This problem has got to be caused by a disconnected wire, and it must be the output wire on the flasher socket. To identify the suspect wire, unplug the flasher from the socket - then one wire will still have 12 volts on it under the same conditions as before - that wire is OK. The other wire is the suspect one. Trace it wherever it goes until you find the problem. It could be anywhere in the harness, including at the bulkhead connector - I can't help you further other than to say that the problem HAS to be in that wire.
Dick
