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Followup To
Question -
Dick,
Having never restored a car before I'd like your opinion on choosing the right car to restore. I am planning a restoration project with my son, age 12. It will be his to drive when he reaches that age. I'm not limited by mechanical or electrical ability, but being a first timer I'd like to start with something that I can get parts for and something let's say, cookie cutter. Obviously I'd like my son to do the choosing but if you could give a few options it would be appreciated. Thanks.
Jon Evans
Answer -
I can make a few suggestions regarding things you should consider; you are going to have to make a few decisions yourself.
First, consider the question of safety - if your son is going to drive this vehicle, and you want him to be as safe as possible, you really don't want a car built before the advent of air bags, anti-lock brakes, and crash safety engineering. Such cars are not good candidates for restoration, however, due to their complexity.
If you've already decided on a truly old car, however, safety considerations have to go out the window - it is not practical to consider converting a car built before the last 10 years to that equipment.
With that in mind, you need to narrow it down to what era of car you want to consider. Cars have improved enormously in the last few years, but the difference between the average car of the 30s and one of the 40s is also enormous, and that is true for each decade of progress. For instance, the dual master cylinder for the brakes came into general use in the mid-60s. Disk brakes became very common in the 80s, at least on the front axle.
Any car built after about 1946 or so can be driven in modern traffic, given that the driver allows extra stopping distance, and is aware that the lighting is very poor by modern standards, especially at the rear.
Unfortunately, the cars built in the recent decade are too complex for the amateur restorer, because they are computerized, and involve Fuel Injection and electronic ignition. I think the latest car one can truly restore oneself would be one built in the late 60s or early 70s.
The more simple the car, the easier the task. Thus I would suggest a mid-60s to mid 70s Dodge Dart or Plymouth Valiant - especially one with the 225 Slant 6 and Torqueflight transmission - probably the most mechanically bulletproof car of that era. A close second would be a Chevy Nova or Chevelle. Pick one new enough that it has a dual braking system. A Ford Mustang is very easily found, but I don't especially recommend those because the structure is weak, and very prone to rust problems.
Mechanical parts for any of those cars are readily available from your local auto-parts store. Body and trim parts are hard to find for any old car, so be sure to buy a car that is 100% complete.
If you give me some more to go on, or respond to my thoughts above, I'll try to narrow it down some more for you.
I started in the hobby with a 1930 Model A Ford - a very simple car, but it taught me a lot. Of course that was in 1948, so it was just a cheap 18 year old car. That would be like starting with a 1988 Toyota Corolla today - (which is a very good car also, by the way).
Good Luck - I hope you get another young person interested in the hobby - us old timers are dropping like flys!
Dick (Still driving his 1947 Packard - but very cautiously).
Dick,
Thanks for the info. Ever since college I have been partial towards the Plymouth Barracuda. A friend had one and would it ever get up and go. I like the Chevelle as well and the Camaro. If you had to pick one of the three what would be your thoughts? Also, I know the body styles change year to year so which years models do you like the best? Obviously it's probably getting tough to find the "vintage" year models but are there any still out there that can be had for a decent price?
Jon
AnswerAs you are no doubt aware, anything that remotely resembles a "Muscle car" is going to be very expensive - the auction scene seems to have glommed onto those as the latest fad - so I'd avoid anything with a big engine. But amongst the three you mention, you should be able to find any of them for $5000 or less that are in driveable condition now, and they are all simple enough to tackle as a restoration project. My general advice is to buy the very best example you can afford, as it will be an easier car to restore, and cost less in the long run. I like all of the cars you mention - I wouldn't really have a preference amongst them - I'd chose based on condition, especially condition of the body and undercarriage, if you live east of the rockies, where serious rust is an issue on any old car. As I said before, the 225 Slant 6/torqueflight is an exceptionally robust drivetrain, so I'd lean a bit toward that if you can find a Barracuda with that setup. 1966 and later is best from a safety standpoint.
Dick
