QuestionMy 69 Ford Ranchero was running fine I parked and went to shut it off, and it died, so i started it back up to make sure it wasnt an electrical problem, and it started fine. Next morning went to start it and leave to work and nothing not even the lights would would come on the only thing that works is radio which is wired directly to the battery. The Radio has a volt meter display and it says the battery is @ 11.5V. I have recently replaced the Battery, Starter, Alternator, Voltage regulator, Wire Harness From the Fuse Block to the Dash, Coil Starter solenoid, and the ignition switch. So where do I go from Here? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh and my Ranchero came Stock with a 351C not a windsor It was ordered that way by my Dads Friend In 1969!
AnswerI'd guess the problem will be a bad connection, probably on the main power feed wire which is connected directly to the hot terminal on the starter solenoid or "siamesed" into the the positive battery cable (post end) if you have that type of cable end. It is also possible that there is a bad connection where the power goes through the firewall, especially if you live where there are moisture problems. There is a "bulkhead" connector, probably near where the steering column goes through the firewall - it is a multi-pin connector with wires that bring power into and out of the dash area for all the circuits in the car. Another place to check is on the Ammeter terminals, if your car has the meter instead of the idiot light (the ammeter was an option that year).
There are at least 4 different wiring diagrams for that year car, depending on which alternator, which type of choke, and whether or not the car has the full dash with all 6 gauges, or not, and I don't have all the diagrams anyway, so I can't tell you for sure which color of wire to pay special attention to, but I can tell you that the wire that is in trouble will be a thick one, probably a #10 gauge (the largest wires on the battery circuit) or a #12 wire (only slightly smaller). Just inspect both ends of all those big wires, and I think you'll find the culprit. If you have a test light, life will be easy because you can just move along each wire, - checking for 12 volts at the source end, and at the other end - if you have it both places, that one is OK. If you don't have a test light, buy one at your local auto parts store - they're cheap, and easy to use, and will save you a lot of grief over the years. If you don't want to buy one, you can make one with a small 12 volt bulb (a #1895 is ideal) and two pieces of wire. Solder one wire to the outer shell of the bulb and the other to the center terminal. Now, when you ground the other end of one of the wires (which one doesn't matter), and touch end of the other wire to a hot circuit, the bulb will light up.
This sort of thing is just detective work. First try retracing everything you touched during your recent repairs - to make sure any connections you made are still good. Don't trust appearances - a test light is the only way to know for sure that they are making good contact.
Don't overlook the battery cables themselves - both ends of both cables must be clean, bright shiny metal, and the places they connect must also be clean and bright, unpainted shiny metal. If you have one of those "temporary" repair type clamp on ends on your cables, take those cables and throw them away, and buy new ones. The clamp on ends are famous for developing poor connections inside the clamp area = producing just the sort of symptoms you are having.
Good luck - keep after it, you'll find it!
Dick
