Question
Dick
Hi, The car that I want to re-wire is a 1938 American Bantam, for now I just want to get it started. The wire on the selanoid and key switch need to be changed.
The car that I want to restore is a 1921 Packard Touring, it was restored
in the 60's but needs to be done again. I would like have it done the
correct way but I believe it would cost me more then the car is worth.
I live on Long Island here in New York,
What ever help you can give me is certainly appreciated -
Ken
Followup To
Question -
Dick
Hi, I have 2 questions, first I want to replace some wires coming from the electrical area, distributor, key switch, etc. I dont want to replace the wiring harness. My question is what type of wire do I use and what guage, its for a
6 volt system.
My second question is, do you know anyone who is reasonable, price / cost when it comes to restoring cars ?
Thanks
Ken
Answer -
I really need to know much more about your project to answer either question. Wire sizes on 6 volt cars run all the way from #18 to #00, depending on what circuit you are re-wiring. For most of the light duty circuits like the ignition primary wires, #14 is the best bet. For heavier duty wiring like headlights, use #10 or even #8 wire. For starter wiring (battery cables), use #00.
For old style cloth covered wire, buy the modern look alike stuff, it's much safer and still looks authentic. A good source is Y and Z's Yesterdays in San Bernardino CA. They also sell partial or full wiring harnesses, all made up with the right size and color wire, the right terminals on the ends, and a list of which wire goes where. I strongly recommend you do it that way. If you only want to replace the stuff under the hood, just tell them that. But be aware, the old cloth covered wire which was used up until the mid 50s, will fall apart on you once you start driving the car, even though the stuff under the dash may look OK now, it won't be safe!
As for restoration costs, you get what you pay for. You have to find a shop which will agree to do the quality of work you are willing to pay for. There is no free lunch - labor costs run from $30 per hour to about 3 times that, depending on where you are located, and what type of quality you are looking for. A full, body off, frame up restoration will take hundreds and hundreds of hours - you do the math.
Parts cost are quite low if you're doing a Model A Ford, and outrageous if your doing a heavy true classic, like a '30s Packard etc.
People who are going for a Pebble Beach trophy often spend around $250,000 on a restoration. On the other hand, some lesser cars with so-so quality of work, done in a dirt floor shed in Mississippi, might get a "restoration" done for around $30,000 (but it won't win any trophies!)
So, tell me what kind of car you are doing, where you live, and what you would like in the way of quality - maybe I can give you some guidelines. I won't be able to recommend any particular shops unless you happen to live near me, where I know the shops.
Dick
AnswerFor the wire from the key switch, #14 will be fine. The wire on the solenoid that goes to the starter switch is OK for #14 also. If there is a wire from the solenoid to the starter, that should be a #8, at least - #6 would be better.
You can never go wrong using too large a wire. If you think a wire is too small, feel it - if it gets warm, it's too small.
The only restoration shop I know of back on the east coast that I can recommend is White Post restorations, in White Post Virginia. Yes, it will cost more than the car is worth, probalby. That is always the case unless you have a really valuable car like an SJ Duesenberg or the like. Packards are generally valuable cars, but they are also complex, and cost a lot to restore.
This hobby is not a way to make money, and cars are not an investment, no matter what the speculators will try to tell you. The car hobby is for folks who like the cars and like to do their own work.
Dick
