Classic/Antique Car Repair: top stops part way up or down, electrical continuity, needle in a haystack


Question
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Followup To
Question -
I have a 1963 soft top t-bird. I know it's not the hardtop fairlane but I thought the problem might be similar since this top goes into the trunk also. The top comes up about a third of the way then stops making noise and falls back down. It will try again and make it a little further. If you help it just a little it will make it all the way. Can you help?
Answer -
I'll admit with my focus on retractable hardtops, I didn't know there was another retactable of this vintage.  I obviously have never seen one in action.

I'll assume for this answer there are similarities between the hard and softtop operations...you'll quickly see what I mean.

If you were describing a hardtop that doesn't to go fully back or fully forward, the answer would typically lie in two areas:  bad plunger action or bad electrical connection.  Your description suggests the likely culprit is bad plunger action...

I'll assume at about 1/3 erected there is some obvious new action (or not so obvious), like a new motor kicking in, or perhaps the initial lifting motor stopping so another motor might take over.  In any event, there is likely some plunger arrangement that is looking for a contact point to hit, a metal tab to bump up against, etc.  Failure to have this plunger pushed in, for example, would cause the motor circuit to lose continuity, and thus the motor would stop.

Now... when you assist the top, the plunger IS able to reach its designated target, electrical continuity is maintained, and the cycle can be completed.

How's that for a description of a needle in a haystack?

If you can write back to tell me if I'm on the right track and whether there is one or more separate and new actions starting at the 1/3 erected point, that would be helpful.

I guess you could say I'm working blind on this one, but I'd be happy to learn more about your car and how the top operates...while we fix it!

Dave
Thanks for the prompt response. I just tried it so I could give you a better description of what is happening. The top stops at different points each time. When it stops it goes back down if I'm still holding the switch. If I let go of the switch when it stops it will hold at that point and then if I start the switch again it will go a little further and if I keep repeating it, it will go all the way. I hadn't tried that before so I couldn't give you that clue. Thanks again.   Mark

Answer
Mark,

That sounds more like a battery/solenoid power problem.

In that split second that you release the switch and the top is at rest...the battery is also at rest.  It's at rest in the sense that it's not generating heat as a by-product of powering the top.  Believe it or not, in that very short span of time when the switch is not energized, the battery actually cools down...just a bit...but enough to give the motor another shove when you flip the switch again.  Then the "too much heat and not enough power for the motor" cycle starts again.

In the line from the battery (in its giving power to the motor) there is  the possibility that the wiring from the solenoid to the motor is adding a tiny bit of resistance, so, for example, instead of 12.9 volts arriving at the motor, only 12.8 or 12.7 arrive.  This tiny difference could also be part of the problem.  I'd check this first.  It's easy to do.

Check the battery's voltage at rest (like 12.9)  Check the battery's voltage when the switch is on. (like 12.9)  Check the voltage as it arrives at the motor.  (like 12.2 or less).  Whatever difference you come up with is your resistance (and resistance is futile....I mean bad).

Let's see what those numbers turn out to be...and then we can move on and check other things.  Let me know what you find.

Dave