QuestionI have worked on trucks and cars but never to restore. This may be simplistic but where would you suggest I start? I ran this truck 18 years ago until the gas tank leaked. Now in my 60's and about to retire I would take great pleasure in restoring this truck.
I have been advised to get it running first. If that is your response how would I do that safely without harm to the engine?
Under the chevrolet symbol was written Thriftmaster. I can't find such a registery.
The gas tank is under the box.
Appreciating your comments,
Ken
AnswerI learn something every day on here. I didn't know they made a 1/4 ton truck - except in the car based sedan delivery. I had a 51 "3100" which was a 1/2 ton - a great truck.
Anyway, it seems that step #1 for you is to remove the gas tank and send it to a Tank Renew place - they advertise in all the hobby publications, or you can find them on the web. They will clean out and repair your tank and return it to you looking like new.
Second task, and you can do this while you are waiting for the tank, is to drop the oil pan and clean out the muck in there. Please don't even try to turn the engine over until you do this. There will be about 1/2 inch of grit in the bottom of the oil pan, if you try to crank the engine the pump will pick this up and circulate it through the engine, ruining the bearings for sure!
While you have the pan down, check the bearing clearance on all main and rod bearings with "Plastiguage" - available at any parts store - it's cheap, easy to use, and very accurate - just follow the directions. I'm betting that after that check, you will decide that the engine needs rebuilding - so pull it out and take it to a good automotive machine shop. They'll take it from there - fortunately parts for the old "stove-bolt" 6 are still available. While you have the engine out, get a new clutch disk and throwout bearing, and have your machine shop reface the flywheel.
While you're waiting for the engine to be done, go through the rest of the cooling system - have the radiator checked and rodded out or recored, whatever is needed. Also, take the brakes apart and replace all the wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Of course repack the wheel bearings and replace the hub seals while you are at it. If your wiring harness is still the original, order out a new one from "Y and Z's yesterdays" in San Bernardino - before you have a fire and lose the whole thing!
While you're at it, you might as well send the generator and starter out for check/rebuild as needed.
Order out all new ignition parts and have the carburetor rebuilt - either do this yourself, or send it to a pro - don't let the local parts house send it to their rebuilder - they are usually really incompetent. It ain't rocket science, you can do it, all you need is the right kit and a clean well lit workplace. If your wife doesn't object, the kitchen table works well!
Check the rear end and transmission grease - if it needs any, use type GL4 grease in the SAE 140 weight - don't get talked into the modern grease - it isn't right for your truck.
Get all new belts and hoses, including any fuel or vacuum hoses.
Now, when you put all that back together, you will have a truck you can drive anywhere without fear of a breakdown. If it feels good on the road, just have a front end alignment shop take a look at your settings, and be on your way to the paint/upholstery/chrome/glass/tire shops. By the time you've spent about $20,000, you'll have a nicer truck than you can buy new for that much money, and it will be worth about half of that (no one makes money on a restoration unless they do all the work themself, and that is only because the labor is free!). Don't get tempted to put in a modern engine, fancy wheels or the like - people like me who like them original will think you've ruined the truck, and people who like the customized look of a modified truck will outclass you by a mile, as they have spent probably 3 times as much modifying their vehicle!
Good luck - I hope you do it right!
Dick.
